Still having hot start (no starter crank) problems with my 89 Turbo Trans Am. I have been able to rule out the VATS/Passkey System since the problem only occurs when the car is hot and the Vats system checks out correctly for all mechanical and electrical specifications.

I've run a wire from the S terminal of the solonoid. When the engine is cold and cranks properly there is 9.5 V at this terminal. When the engine is hot and will not crank nor even engage the solonoid, there is 7.5 V at this terminal and the voltage will continue to climb as long as the key is held in the start position. If I hold this wire to the positive terminal of the battery the solonoid engages immediately, the starter cranks the engine which fires immediately and runs fine. Once the engine cools down, the car starts as if there was never a problem. Do this voltage readings give information as to what is causing this issue. I believe that engine heat is the issue, however, I don't want to simply start replacing things without some forethought. I don't think the problem would be in the Park/neutral start switch, or the ignition switch since the the heat inside the car is not what I would consider an issue. Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

 

The stock starter is bad about doing this when it gets hot. Best thing to do is ditch the stock type unit and install a mini starter. I use a Pro Comp denso style-----cured my issues.

 

Mr. Brooks: thank you for your response. Can you supply specifications and a vendor for the starter you're recommending?

 

I had the same problem with my car. Turns out the car came with a 305 and they replaced the engine but kept the same starter. Went to Advance Auto Parts and bought a replacement for a 350 engine and no more hot start problems. And this is with headers too. Item number 5220033 and it cost me $33.97. The listing was for a 1980 Z-28 350 even though my car is an 86 Z-28.

 

Definitley sounding like the starter, my TTA had the same issues:-)

Either get a good stock replacement or get new bolts and a LT1 starter to shave a few pounds of the nose, like 11 lbs or so.

later
Jeremy

 

I'm looking at a mini-hi torqu starter from DB Electric. Any opinion?

 

Same problem here. Never had a problem with the 305 during the 3 years I drove it. Replaced it with a 350 last summer and have been chasing a hot start problem for the past 6 months. During the engine swap they had to fab a y-pipe to go with the 350 manifolds. I think they did a crap job and maybe ran it too close to the starter. I've been through 2 autozone starters and finally went to a delco. But it doesnt seem to make a difference which brand I use.

I am going to go with a remote solenoid and see if that doesnt cure this very frustrating problem.

 

I run a stock starter on a 400 SB with SLP headers. I did wrap the starter using the aluminized blanket type heat shield. I have had no starting problems. You do have several options, but you have to have a good starter to begin with (and make sure the connectors are not corroded). Good Luck.

 

bit of an old thread but i had this happen to me today and it infuriated me. Satrted up fine this morning went to muffler shop to get o2 bung welded in, car sat for about 1 1/2 hours. started right up went on a short drive to a friends and came out 3 minutes later and ssssssslllllloooooowwwww crank waited a few min same thing had a friend come over with jumper wires about 2 hours later and still slow crank left the jumpers on for about 5 minuites while he reved his car and it started fine. Went o autozone thinking battery and they tested it it passed 800cca battery. Now i dont know if i should get a second test on the battery or if my starter is the issue its a stock replacement starter and i have two 4ga wires running to it straiht from the battery. One to the pos. and the other to one of the mounting bolts for the starter just to be sure no ground issues. ps i also have the starter wrap on it