i want to start running 5w30 royal purple in my race car, but it's only ever run on conventional 10w30 and 10w40. i've heard of good things about the royal purple stuff since it came out, but i've also heard you shouldn't switch if all that the engine has run was conventional. is there something i can do to flush the engine? any advice is appreciated.

 

When I switched I did it at 90,000 miles. I did an engine flush and went to the synthetic blend and have been very happy ever since. Although I don't use Royal Purple (can't find a consistant supplier) I have heard good things too. Still I have been very happy with the switch. Won't be going back to conventional.

 

You need to know where to drain the old oil out, and where to put the new oil in. That's about it.

 

is it not a big deal to do a flush? and who's brand flush is the best if it is a big deal? i work at O'Rielly Auto Parts now while i'm in school (yeah, starting a little late, lol!) so i can get it whenever i'm at work.

 

Mobile One Synthetic 10W 30. Being an old fossil lubricant user, once I switched to the aforementioned really OPENED my old eyes.

 

I wouldn't bother with the flush, especially if it's a low mileage race car with nothing to flush out.

 

i have done the switch in every car i own and never flushed one before.

 

Race car? I'm just wondering if you want to run such thin oil? Do you know the bearing clearances?
I've heard if it's a dedicated race car you may want a straight weight, and a much heavier oil.

 

think just sticking with the 10w30 weight would be better then?

 

Do you know the bearing clearances? If they are stock(ish) 5 or 10W30 would be fine.
Once those are warmed up they're both 30W. Thicker is harder on the pump but gives you more "cushion" before you spin a bearing. I think straight 50W
is pretty common.
This would be useful if you've got .003" main/rod bearing clearances, and not low .002" type of clearances.

 

these guys are both right. all you need to know is how to do an oil change just like normal and don't need to do a flush unless you would of flushed with regular dino juice anyway.

its' the same as far as you use it and run with it other then it protects better and last longer. other then that just treat it like dino juice. one of the other myths about switching back and forth is false also. you can switch them anytime with one another. go to synthetic when you want and go to dino juice when you want.

 

cool, i'll pick up some 5w30 before the next race.

sonix, the bottom end was buit with stock specs with larger ring gaps in case i decide to spray, but nothing crazy was done with the bearings.

 

Right on, should be just fine.
If you've got a really consistent car, be sure to let us know if you pick up any MPH doing the switch. You're "supposed" to gain some HP, but personally i'm doubtful, and always like to see proof.
Good luck!

 

If you do care to flush, I always heard atf is a suitable cleaner, take care as it is VERY prone to foaming. I've used it under several occasions without troubles. Seafoam is also a suitable flush.

If the car was ran with penzoil or quakerstate a flush may do you good.

 

it was havoline

 

Should be in good shape then.

Off the subject, but how do you like working for oreilly's, I worked there for a year and a half.

 

it's different from what i'm used to. i like a little bit more small town mom and pop type of stuff, and this is big corporate america...but the discount sure is nice!

 

sea foam.. yes just make sure your neighbors know so they wont call the fire department. I used it on my cj5 trail rig when I first got it. Man the smoke pouring out of my garage looked like the house was on fire and the local volunteer fire dept did show up with 2 trucks . LOL

 

Well yeah but, id pour it in the crankcase too, not just down the carb.

 

Well, you made me do it (I didn't want to, but ya'll made me - remember that).

Royal Purple is pretty good stuff. Certainly better than the P, V, H, and Q stuff. Mobil 1 has the advantage of a large oil company with an aggressive advertising campaign with a decent product.

They all fall short of the First - AMSOIL. Are you going to kill your engine if you don't use AMSOIL? Of course not. Is it worth the extra bit of effort to get it, when others are stocked on the shelf? In my opinion, yes. But, of course, I'm biased. See, I even admit it.

The best crankcase flush comes from AMSOIL - that's not bias, that's a fact. You can find off-the-shelf stuff that will thin the oil and dissolve some stuff, but it won't be as thorough a job as the AMSOIL product will do. On the other hand, as mentioned above, on a fairly low mileage engine that has received regular changes, it probably isn't necessary.

As for a recommendation, if you have a flat-tappet cam, I would recommend AMSOIL 5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel synthetic (also rated for gasoline engines). More anti-wear additives for the shear friction of lobe to lifter. If roller cam, AMSOIL 10W-30 (originally formulated for turbo engines, so it doesn't use viscosity index improver additives, the first additive in any oil to break down, oxidize, sludge up and kill lubrication properties).

5W- or 10W- isn't that big of a deal. How they get the viscosity index rating is what is important.

 

And what would you guys recommend for a 192,000 lg4 that was a daily driver for a loooong time ? Flush or not ?

Is flushing something i could do on my own ?

Also, what brand do you recommend against ? why ?

thanx !

 

I'd flush it.

Pour 1/3 can of seafoam in the crank, drive the vehicle around gently, until its warmed up, change the oil.

Penzoil, Quakerstate, and Cenpeco. They are made with paraffins that break down quickly due to heat.