88blkbrd

Hey all, I finaly decided on a comp cam magnum hydraulic roller cam (230 degrees intake and exhaust duration at .050"). Ok, so the cam will be installed on a L98 block (2 bolt main, .030" over). The guy who prepped my block installed the cam bearing, caps, freeze plugs, and oil plugs. However, I know I will need a thrust button and a locking plate. Will I need to install wear plates or anything else? As of now, the block is on a stand and is comepletely bare, so I've got no problems with access.



Thanks,
Steve

1986Z28OWNER

iTrader: (1)

being a l98 it should be a factory roller block, you shouldnt need a thrust button, just the factory plate for holding the cam in the block

88blkbrd

well here's the thing, the engine in my car now is the 2.8L. So i don't have any stock parts for this block. I'm assuming the locking plate is the plate that you are talking about. This is my first engine build, so I just want to make sure there is nothing that goes behind the cam (at the rear of the block). So, to be a bit more specific, does anything get installed behind the cam, in the cap at the rear of the block?

Thanks for the info,
~Steve

SpitotRs305

no nothing goes behind the cam... well nothing that you should be putting in place

88blkbrd

Sweet! Thanks!


~Steve

1986Z28OWNER

iTrader: (1)

basically what im talking about a a plate with 2 bolts holes that holds the cam in the block and sits behind the timing chain and gives the cam the correct amount of end play, no need for cam buttons etc...

car_fixer

do you have a timing set yet? if you do not i would get one that has a torrington bearing that rides on the block behind the cam gear, and you can get a timing cover with built in button, or if you use the stock cover with a cam button it can flex so many aftermarket water pumps have a screw to help support the cover ( they usually say something in the product litirature) also like was said previously if there are two bolts on either side of the cam hole then its a factory roller block, it will also then have taller lifter bores and some standoff in the lifter valley, those were to hold they tray that held the lifter guides in place. if it is a factory roller block you might want to get tall lifters so the link bars dont hit the lifter bores ( you can grind them some on the corners to fit the bars, thats what i had to do, i also have a rediculous cam in it .701 lift on the exhaust .698 on the intake...) so if it is a factory roller block, i would get the cam that fits the oe roller block with the matching chain and get the retainer plate and screws, that is the best way to handle if it is an oe roller. check it out.