Well I'm looking into getting this cam for "long term" project Camaro, duration 230/230, lift .480/.480 @.050. LSA 108, power range, 2500-6000 rpm.

I'll be using the S10 torque conveter since they are very inexpensive.

Can I get away with using the S10 converter or should I look for a different cam?

What I'm looking for is that choppy lopey idle of a hot rod. The build is going to be more of a show car than racer. I know, I know, but the cops around here are brutal.

Thanks.

 

You're going to need about 2500 stall bare minimum to make that livable- I don't think a V6 converter is going to give you even that. 3000 stall would work a lot better.

 

I hear that. I tried searching for a reason why I need more stall when going to a bigger cam. There should be a sticky on the stupid basics.

 

The cam you want to run requires a 11" "2800stall" converter at minimum.
Do not buy a converter with less than 2800stall reguardless of how cheap it is.
A 10" "3500 stall" is not too much.
There are many good entry level "cheap" hi stall converters you can choose.
You don;t need a super expensive pro/nitrous converter on a mild 350.
The factory "S-10" converter does not have enough stall speed.
Jegs #555-60404 is "just right" TH350-400. $219.
Don't be a wimp and buy the wrong (s10) converter. Long term, you'll just spend more money buying two converters. Spend $100 more and get the right converter, the first time.

A cam with high(er) duration and overlap has reduced manifold vacuum at idle.
The EGR effect from the increased cam overlap at idle slows down the fuel flame burn speed, requireing much more initial spark advance at idle.
that cam likes 24deg or more idle timing. (requires that you recurve the distributor to limit the advance travel)
Some bigger race cams want full timing at idle (locked out distributor advance)

The reduced manifold vacuum at idle while idling in gear requires that you change the carbs power valve. That cam usually wants a 4.5" power valve.
(holley) or 4.5" metering rod power piston step up springs ( AFB, Qjet)

Because a motor with a big cam makes less torque while idling in gear, a high stall torque converter is required to reduce the engine torque load while the motor is idling in gear. This, when combined with increased initial spark timing allows the motor to idle in gear cleanly with minimual throttle opening.

If your motor is hard to start ( slow starter cranking speed) when hot, with 24deg+ initial timing, install a MSD "'starter saver" or a simple dash mounted ignition cut off switch to disable the spark power during hot cranking. Crank it over and throw the switch and it will fire right up.

get some 4.10's

If you set it up as described and use reasonable hi performance mufflers and a full exhaust system where the exhaust exits at the back of the car, the cops will not hassle you even with a cool sounding, (but reasonable) hot rod ruff idle.

If you'd like a even cooler sounding cam that makes very good power and will bolt into a near stock motor with just a valvespring change consider this ISKY cam #201278 278-278 adv dur 234-234@.050" 106LSA .450"-.450" valve lift. Install advanced on a 102 intake C/L. Use ISKY 205D or Lunati 73943 springs.

Reguardless of wether you want to race or just have a cool sounding saturday night cruiser/show car you'll be much happier ("long term") if you set your car up properly. If you do it right the first time you'll have a very enjoyable street machine. half *** it and you'll soon tier of it.

 

F-BIRD'88, thanks man. Finally some reasons why you can't just slap in a big cam and go. I'm always browsing through the summit catalog and wondered, "distributor lockout?"

Thanks again.