i got a 350tpi, with the dual fans, a 160 stat and a 177on 166 off hypertec fan switch, i spliced the fans to run off the relay thats controlled by the hypertec fan switch. also TB bypass. this thing runs great during the summer. no overheating and hardly gets about 175. but now its winter and my cars running at 150 degrees for daily commuting to school (today it stayed at 140 degrees!), this cant be good bc my car wont switch from open loop to closed loop.... or am i fine? i have a motorvation strip chip in the ECM as well as stewart warner electric gauges (thats how i know my engine temp exactly)
is this a problem?

i also have my trans never getting above 100 degrees lately bc its winter, i have the 700r4, lots of upgrades in my sig. i have a deep pan 2 extra qts, rapotor blood fluid, and a 24000 GVW B&M trans cooler, the cooler is tapped into the line coming out of the radiator then runs into the cooler and then back to the trans. i have a cyberdine trans temp guage for that since i needed one that started at 70 degrees bc in the summer this thing only gets to 160 in hot summer traffic. this cant be good either for my trans, i mean my commutes are short say 10 miles so most of the time my trans never gets to 100 degrees. is this bad for the trans?

 

Either your temp gauge is off or your thermostat is bad. 160F is too cold anyway.

 

As far as temp for your trans,thats good,cooler trans temp means longer life,but for the engine to run that cool all the time,not good on a Tuneport,computer will not know what to do,at WOT,it could LEAN out the FUEL,not that it will,it could do alot of funny stuff,Ive never seen one BLOW UP from this,but it will affect fuel mileage for sure.Ide run at least a 180 in the winter,i160 in summer,or Ide leave the 160 and drive car when it was warmer days in winter.

 

IMO, there's no reason to run anything lower than a 180F. The thermostat just sets the minimum temp. It has nothing to do with overall cooling capacity. A higher temp is more efficient and evaporates the condensation out of the oil faster.

 

160 is supposed to make more power,but you wont feel it that much,in the REAL WORLD it dont happen that way,,lol I am guilty of the 160 degree t-stat also,but it realy doesnt make that much difference if you have a good cooling system anyway,good radiator,good fans,sensors working properly,ect.
Its only makes(MAYBE) about 1 or 2 horse power anyway,on a DAILY driver it wont matter,on a DRAG car ,every bit counts.

 

ive got the same thermostat/fan switch setup. I just disconnect the fan switch when i drive in the cold, so far so good.

 

yea i have a 180 stat and jet 200 on 180 off fan switch but i hate to have to do the tsat and change the wire connector etc to put the other fan switch in.
it really only gets to 150 when im on the highway for a while, in the city etc its stays around 160. still i kno thats low bc the ECM needs at least 160 for closed loop etc. i just stuck the 160 in bc in the summer our cars have tendencies to overheat which mine did before i started wit the low 180 and 160 stats. im not sure that i want to disconnect my fan switch just bc its in an akward spot to reconect on the side of the road when the header primaries are glowin lol.

right now i got a bigger prob, i got a lake in my driver side brand new carpet. and i replaced all the weather stripping a yr ago.... i found 2 holes in the floor by behind the front wheel on th lip. my 300$ newark auto carpet is soaked