OK, I have had this 82 CFI Camaro for about a month now and have been fighting the same issue the whole time. It idles higher than its supposed to (like 2000 before it gets warm and 1250 to 1500 when warm and in park) and I have terrible gas mileage along with a code 44. Also I get a stumble when it is real cold out (in Alaska) and the car is not totally warm yet. I just falls on its face at like 2000 rpms. The only other thing it does is when it idles after warming up or after start up it is at like 750 rpm but if you drive around and stop it wont idle lower than 1000 in drive and like 1500 to 1750 in park.

I will start with alittle history. First thing wrong was the car was just dead to throttle input when up to speed. No power what so ever. So i dug some looking around and found the EVAP Valve (at the bottom of the pass exhaust manifold) was stuck closed. I opened it and it kept getting stuck so I took off the vacuum lines for that system and capped everything.

I changed the pcv valve and the o2 sensor just because the previous owner said they needed to be changed. I also ran new vacuum lines to the power brake booster and the EGR valve.

So I figure I must have a vacuum leak somewhere but can't find one anywhere. I was disconnecting and capping lines as a last ditch way of trying to find a leak. When I disconnected and capped the line off the manifold for the PCV and fuel canister the car would not even run. It started and the idle jumped around for like 3 seconds then it just stalled. So I just disco'd and capped the line running off the t to the fuel canister and the idle got very jumpy but it ran. TPS voltage it right on and disconnecting the egr valve did not help either. New plug and the old plugs looked fine so it is not running dead rich or anything.

Last piece of info was I did have a code for the CTS but I rewired the switch and reset it and it has been fine since.

Sorry for the long post but I wanted to give you all the info. Thanks in advance.

 

check for that vacuum leak with some starting fluid. also, i know you're in alaska but does the car have a/c? if so the fast idle solenoid may be stuck in the on position

 

see if you can get a hold of a vaccumm gauge, its much easier IMO, but also use the starter fluid method, from my experience high idle is just a vaccum leak, plus when you use the gauge it can show you other possible problems with then engine

 

I have tried the starter fluid trick today and haven't been able to find anything. Yes the car has AC and where is the switch you are talking about and how do I check it?

 

well i'd try a vaccuum gauge next, i know with a high idle its alot more difficult to hear a leak and it can become a big headache. A buddy of mine used that blacklight fluid from checker you use to check for A/c leaks to find his vaccum leak, he just misted it into his throttle body over a 10 minute period and then took a blacklight over his engine and you can see it clear as daylight, just be sure you dont dump it in at once, spray it in to mix it evenly with the gas and it should work
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http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...goryCode=3572B


Theres a link to it, it's like 7 bucks

 

it's been a while since i saw a stock setup but i think they are driver side and it's just a plunger that opens your throttle a very small amout....i think you can disconnect it..another thing you might check (requires removal of carb) is make sure the lower butterflies are closing all the way..it may have somebuildup holding them open just a bit..it's cleanable with a q-tip and fresh gasoline..