I'm looking to do some upgrades to the 350 in my 1974 Nova this spring, and I'm hoping you guys can help with some of the decision making as far as parts and combos go? I'm a novice in terms of rebuilding

We can't figure out if the car has 162,000 miles on it or 62,000 miles, but either way the valve stem seals are on the way out (which leads me to believe 162,000?) and the car burns some oil.

We had the tranny (TH350) rebuilt a little over a year ago and had a slightly higher than stock stall put in and a Trans-Go shift kit to go along. The trans shifts 1-2 beautifully at WOT, barking the tires. Only about 5,000 miles on the transmission since new.

So I figured I just go ahead and beef up the 350 a little bit with a good street head/cam combo and replace all bearings/gaskets/rings from a rebuild kit. I would try and keep the same bore size and clearances stock for everything, and would be doing a simple hone job on the cylinders. I would also like to bump up compression from the stock 8.5:1 to something like 9.5:1 with new pistons and a smaller chamber size.

Basically I'm looking for a combo that will at least get me into the 13's at the track (given the right suspension and drivetrain setup) and something close to 350hp/350ft-lbs.

This is what I've been looking up so far:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

I need some suggestions on a cam as I need vacuum for brakes and I don't have a high enough stall for a huge cam. Also, something that will fit the bill with the 170cc runners. Something with just a noticeable small lopey idle.

This is kind of a budget build so a hydraulic flat tappet would be ideal for me.

We currently also already have a Holley 600cfm carb and long tube headers.

Any kind of input would be greatly appreciated, Thanks!

 

Get your self a set of vortec heads and performer or performer rpm intake for the heads. Your 600 will work would like to see a vacume secondary 750 As for cam try a crane summit part # crn-113511 or voodoo lun -60101 Both of those cams or even somthing simmular to them will work. You will need headers and a good exhaust system, small coveter 2500 rpm, and a 3.73 gear you should be able to run your #s with some to spare. Why woud you not bore it over size doing this with a tourqe plate will asure you a good seal on the ring and give you a little extra power. Yes you are on the right track with your picks.

 

All you have to do is make the parts work together.... my engine was $1,600 from air cleaner to oil pan and gets 436 hp. I get 15 in of vacuum at idle, but only about 14-16 mpg in the city.

2 bolt 1999 350 r code truck engine
vortec heads
10.24 to 1 comp (flat top)
comp cams xr 282 roller
summit vortec intake
m-77 oil pump (it actually fits)
and a 3310 holley 750

 

What was involved in machining the block? If I don't need to bore my block, that would be awesome, and how would I go about checking to make sure my crank is in good enough shape to use new bearings?

If I need to have the block bored, there are a few local shops around that would be able to do it, but it's gonna cost me $$$. I guess if I bring the block to a shop they can put new cam bearings in for me too?


I just need to know the begining process of getting a old used block reconditioned and ready for new parts.

 

Poppn- you have already selected Vortec heads (from Summit) and a basic rebuild kit with flattop pistons which will get you a much improved compression ratio with your chosen heads (high 9s).

Since you're going to rebuild the bottom end with new bearings and such you might as well have the block bored and honed 30-over (you can buy that same kit from summit but to match a 30-over bore). That's all work to be done by a competent machine shop. Once the machine work is done you can assemble the engine yourself from a bare block or have the machine shop do it for you. For first-timers I often recommend have the machine work and bottom end assembly done by the machine shop, but but you still bolt on the heads, intake and such. Makes for a fun project to get your feet wet without getting in over your head.

You'll need a Vortec-style intake manifold to go with the Vortec heads. Edlebrock Performer RPM Vortec is a very popular choice for good reason.

Then you'll be needing a cam. Don't go nuts- "one up" from stock is what you want. Streetable as stock with plenty of vacuum and a good idle. But with quote a bit more when you lay through on it. Comp Cams XE262 (218/224* on a 110* LSA). About as big as you'll want to go with the rest of that combo- it's easily 15-20* more duration than any stock cam of that era and on a tighter LSA. You might even want to consider it's little brother the XE256 which is even milder but still a bigger stick than stock.

You won't believe the different in power that a mild heads-n-cam package will make vs. a stock setup of that vintage. "Holy cow!" kind of improvements if you choose your parts well, assemble properly and pay at least modest attention to tuning it when you're done.

 

Thank you so much for your reply and input.

I don't really have anywhere to turn to as far as knowledge and again, I really appreciate the time and effort someone puts forth in helping someone.

I have already started searching for auto machine shops in the area and will be giving them a call to try and get an estimate on the bottom end and block. I have disassembled and assembled old Volkswagen engines before, so I kind of have super basic knowledge of how bearings and caps should be put together.

I would definitely be interested in putting the bottom end together myself, as I can only gain insight and knowledge through first hand experience. But I would also like for everything to be put together right the first time, and I would no doubt take my time to make sure of this, but if putting together the bottom end, or essentially the short block, would be a bit too much for me to chew then I would want the machine shop to do it for me. Again though, I'm really interested in being able to do it myself.


So it looks like I'll be buying a hoist and stand in the next few weeks and prepping the car for the engine to be pulled (I'm gonna need some help with that one too, I have never pulled an engine before) but I think I'll be ok.

This is something I've always wanted, and now that I will be having the time and money I am definitely looking forward in the progress of my car. More importantly, when it's finished, I'll be able to say "Yea, this is my car, and I'm proud to say that it's been mostly built with my own two hands." I'll take alot of pride in that.

I'm also really looking forward to all the help I will hopefully receive from you guys, and that I'll be able to learn and grow from these experiences.


Please, the more input the better, I'll be picking everyones brain for the many months to come!

 

I am not very familiar with Vortec heads, but could porting go a long way with them?

 

If you're going to do the bottom end yourself then remember to mark everything as you disassemble. Use number stamps to mark every rod and every rod cap before you take it apart. Remember to stamp both the rod side AND the cap side. Then you not only know which cylinder it came out of but which cap goes with it, should you get them mixed up in a box that gets dumped. There's a flat spot on the side of every rod and cap that makes a convenient place to stamp it.

Ditto the main caps- you can just use a punch to number the caps. One dot = cap #1. 2 dots = cap #2. Etc, etc. ALSO make sure you know the orientation of the caps. On every main cap there should be an arrow cast into it that points forward. However, they have been known to be installed backwards by both the factory and by people who might have dug around in the motor afterwards. If the cap is backwards (arrow pointing to the rear of the motor) MAKE SURE you have the machine shop check that one out in particular to see if it's machined correctly for that orientation even though it's on backwards. You can NOT just flip them around the wrong way or you'll chew up the main bearing on that saddle real quick.

This is called prep work and it'll save you a ton of heartache later. Resist the temptation to just tear it all down in 90 minutes with an air gun. If in doubt, mark it and maybe take a few digital pictures while you work. Plenty of zip-lock freezer bags and a magic marker can't hurt either!

Your previous wrenching experience will serve you well, but it's your first time through a Small Block Chevy so there are things you'll run into that will be unfamiliar to you. In general, I think you'll be amazed how simple a Chevy V8 is, except that it's got twice as many cylinders as an old Vee Dub motor.

 

YES! I just tore apart my 350 two days ago (still taking pieces off), everything Damon said is pure gold, especially about marking parts and writing on ziplock backs with a sharpie! Keep the bolts with the parts, some look close and are hard to distinguish (ie if you reverse intake bolts and headers it's a bad thing sometimes.)

Buy some plastigauge to help you sleep at night, or let the machine shop measure for you. I rebuilt my 350 for the first time a few years ago (and have had it apart many times since), but it's a VERY rewarding experience. Make sure it's CLEAN! No joke, like you are willing to lick it, that clean. If you're doing grinding, keep the rotating assembly and parts covered in garbage bags or wrapped up somehow.
Good luck