1991 Z28 350 TPI 700 trans, bone stock. Ran 14.85 yesterday with 200 pounds in trunk to hook up. Looking to go lower into the 14s I have ordered new Mickey Thompson's so taking 200 out of the trunk should help a little. What types of mods should get me the most bang for the buck??? I know all of you are trying stuff all the time and i'm not rich and don't whant to throw money away!!! I do not whant to chang the exaust becuse it's brand new when i got the car. Thanks...

 

LCARBs

 

Remove the splash guards in the air filter housing. Port the upper intake plenum. Put in a high output ignition coil, performance plug wires, and open the spark plug gap to sixty. Bypass the coolant that goes through the throttle body. Replacing the standard gear lube in the axle with synthetic should yield a slight reduction in rolling resistance. I would also check the simple things like timing, fuel filter, and air filter.

 

Cheapest mods are to make the car lighter. A lightweight car will go faster than a heavy car with the same HP.

If you want to spend money, best back for the buck is NOS.

 

I would say, k&n filter, exhuast, headers, intake manifold, and ignition like tpeye siad also a god way to get colder air to your engine is to take out the stuff wheere your wipers intermit too i forget what its called but it has a cowl affect when taken out, but put it back in afterwards! Also change your oil in engine, tranny, rear end i'd say that would be a bang for your buck
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Also look around the internet for used stuff you can get alot of good parts for very cheap.

 

get a stall conveter and youll be at your goal easily with those m/t's

 

These cars aren't like the old smogger 60's cars, or points ignition type cars. We have a very hot ignition system stock, and there's very little to be gained from an upgrade there.
LCARB's are only $70 and will help it hook the most. A higher stall converter will also get you up into the power faster. Throw on LCA's too and you might be out $500 when the smoke clears and that'll do the most good for you.

 

What's a stall converter?? All torque converters including factory ones stall. I suppose you want to recommend a 3/4 race cam and cheater slicks also.

 

Go to home depo and get som black erigation tubing and fab a ram air system pull the air filter and make sure it got good tune up with fuel filter do the coolant bypass and try a 160 deg thermostat. And pull every thing out of the car you dont need ie spare tire ,jack and a 1/4 tank of fuel.

 

Some good stuff keep it comming!!! What is LCARB'S ??? I was looking at A airfoil butterfly, adjustable fuel pressure regulator and aftermarket prom. Any thoughts??? Thanks everyone...
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Also we cannot use NOS in division 7 so thats out but thanks for the reply.

 

Division 7?

LCARBs - Lower control arm relocation brackets. Check Spohns website for more info.

 

You can also play with the ign timing try advancing it 2-4 deg may need some 91 oct to see best results.

 

lol sorry.... fine since this guy wants to be a **** get a TORQUE converter for your car that has a higher STALL. happy?

 

get it to hook is number 1. ditch the weight and get soem tires/suspension mods.

torque converter 2800 stall or so will get that thing into the 13's easy. thats your bang for your buck

maybe some 3.42 gears if you dont already have them

 

Yup; hookup sounds like where you're needing help at this point.

Every .1 you can take off your 60', gets you between .15 and .2 at the other end.

Do some work on making it leave HARD. No spinning, no feathering the gas, no wheel hop, just hook up and go, with the engine fully loaded up into the converter.

Airfoils and mail-order PROMs are not a wise use of $$$. TUNING your own PROMs, maybe; mail-order, no. But it won't matter how much power you can make if you can't hook it up.

 

A slightly bigger cam would give you a great bang for your buck and you could do it in a day!

 

That was great.

 

I completely agree. Instead of wasting heaps of cash on shiny parts, like intake ducts, underdrive sheave kits, and fancy air filters, you can spend $230 on a new roller cam and get a lot more power in return than any chrome piece will provide. Of course, you'll probably want to spend a little more and get decent springs to go with that cam. Another $220 for a factory L35 torque converter (with a 36,000 mile, 3 year warranty and 2,300 RPM stall) will get the TPI up higher into the torque RPM for launch.

Port-matching the upper plenum and runners is also a good return if the castings are off (and it's free) and clearing the intact tract of obstructions is also a reasonable idea.

You could easily spend that for a cam and converter $500 in shiny parts that look good but make their best performance contribution by lightening your wallet. A throttle body airfoil, AFPR, and cookie-cutter (aftermarket) program are about as useful as a chrome exhaust tip. Despite the ridiculous and un-quantifyable claims made by their sellers, don't expect to get much out of them.

Unless you are custom programming yourself, don't bother with a 160ºF thermostat or bypassing the coolant chamber under the throttle body. And once you start programming yourself, you'll see clearly why those are not very good overall performance choices.

Once you're making some more torque, you'll quickly see why several others here are suggesting a better rear axle control scheme and tires that stick.

Or, you could buy some used-but-nice 3/4-race cams and cheater slicks from some rogue Canadian speedster...

 

As I said in my first post the Mickeys are ordered so thats a done deal!!! 275-60-15'S... I think you guys gave me some good stuff. My understanding was that you can't burn proms on 1991 and older cars??? You had to buy them is this true? If i put a beefy cam in would the Injectors be big enough? I think will get a higher stahl convertor that sounds like a good investment. Thanks Dave...

 

you can burn proms, its easy to get started, just takes awhile to learn but it isnt all that bad

The problem i see with a cam at this point is that you have stock TPI which will limit your cam choice to being something smaller for use up to 5000 rpms. There are many good cam choices that will make decent power with TPI and stock heads, but i'm not sure how much that will help you if you dont have the gears/converter to match.

I'm not sure what your goals are for this car at the moment but you can get alot of performance out of that stock L98 with gears/converter sticky tires, and a few suspension bolt ons. With a converter tho make sure your trans is fresh since extra stall speed will help heat up that trans. Use a trans cooler to help keep it cool. a 2600-2800 stall wont hurt it that bad but depends on how you drive and where you drive.


With a cam, you WILL need a tune. So add that into your costs. you will need timing chain/set, proper valve train with good springs to match the cam and rocker arms, pushrods, offset locks/shims to handle lift if over .480" which most good cams are, etc.

A cam will help your mid range and peak power but without a converter, you still wont get off the line as quick as you could be. thus you may run the same times as a stalled stock L98.

I think a converter, full exhaust, suspension mods, perhaps some gear since your running a 28inch tall tire, and those sticky tires will net you with some solid mid high 13's. Thats what i got when i had those mods

 

Ended up putting on M&H streetmasters. Car went 14.70 a 2 tenths gain. And very consistant. I raced yesterday and made it into the semis in pro et (the slowest car in the class) But ran dead on 3 times and 2 .oo8 lights also helped but a -.009 sent me home... Going to try some of your stuff this week now that i have a good baseline. Thans everyone!!!