Ok here's the deal I almost got my motor back together and we were pressure testing it and the F$^!ing A$$hole who clearanced it ground right through the water jacket. So now I have over $4000 in parts and no block to put them in and I've had it with machine shops and their lies. So what should I do? Does anyone know where I can get a new block 4 bolt main? Would an lt1 block work? Has anyone bought a block off of ebay????

 

One or two piece rear main?

 

Not a big deal at all.

Give it a short fill. Put a piece of tape over the hole before filling it. Fill both sides. Fill it to about ½" below the freeze plugs on each side. Don't forget to put a piece of plastic tubing or something in there so that the drains will still drain.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=HNH%2D860228

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=MOR%2D35571

 

When you fill a block it will need to be rebored due to the block fill puts pressure on the cylinder walls and makes them smaller. Short fills makes the bottom of the bore smaller the the top. Work with the machine shop buy the block filled if they will re bore. the block will be a lot stronger.

 

Its a one peice rear main seal, and the hole is a pin sized hole on the bottom part of the block on the number 4 piston somewhere near BDC. Wouldn't it be smarter to get a new block thats a 4 bolt main and clearance that one and put my parts in it? Because my block is only a two bolt main and people keep telling me that 4 bolts are stronger. Could I use an lt1 block?

 

The amount of difference in bore size is negligible in most cases, especially with the modern fills; and especially since the pistons have clearance to the bore down there ANYWAY, and the rings never go there.

Just do it and be done with it. All you need, is just enough to cover the ground areas, in the bottom of the water jackets.

A factory 4-bolt setup is largely useless for high-perf usage. The particular stresses it's designed to counter are the ones created by TRUCK applications; continuous low-to-moderate-RPM, high-torque loading. That setup is not effective against high-RPM issues such as cap walk. Don't bother. Your block is fine.

Fix it and move on.

 

Ok well could I just put some jb weld on it? Cause I don't know how to use that other stuff.

 

Sure....

And it could just fall back off, too. Who knows. But yeah, I would suggest either that, or a piece of tape or some gas tank repair putty or something, before the complicated procedure I'm about to describe.I'll give you the instructions then:

Set block up with the deck on one side level. (Start with the side opposite the leak, give yourself some practice) Stick 1" long piece of plastic tubing or similar, chosen to fit tightly in drain hole, into drain hole, portruding up into water jacket. Shake bottle well. Hold bottle in upright position. Remove cap. Partially invert bottle, allowing contents to dispense into block through holes in deck. Restore bottle to upright position when satisfied (an inch or so in the bottom of the water jackets should do the trick, i.e. cover up the hole from the inside, may not even take a whole inch), and restore cap. Allow block to sit overnight. Re-set bolck up with other deck level. Repeat remaining steps as above.

So easy, even a dumba$$ like ME can do it.

 

I have a block were are you in fl. ?

 

Well today we took another pressure test to see where it is leaking cause last night we saw the water but not how big the hole was and when we looked at it today all it really is, is just a pin hole at the bottom of number 4 piston so my dad said he wants to try the jb weld first because its so small of an hole and on tuesday when it is definetly cured we are going to pressure test it again to see if it leaks. So I figured if that doesn't do the trick then I'll try that other stuff you listed.
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I'm in pasco.

 

When you pressure test the JB weld(gum) get it to 230 degrees an see if it is still ok. If you think that will due the trick for staying in high heat, high presure with antifreeze and oil always ready to boil around it.....well that's not what someone that a car guy or girl would IMO. I think your making a mistake. It's not unheard of for the block to sweat through the pours of the cast iron when grinding is done. after all the water jacket is a mass production casting proccess and thing ate not perfect. If I knew one of my car buddies did JB weld on something like this, I would not want anything he ever had for sale due to the quality of work and lack of pride he shown. If it was me I would do the job right. you just never know what life has around the corner and you may need that car for a long time. I think JB weld is something a shady mechanis would try to sell a car. Not on his own car, he don't want walk. Just my thoughts on this after you've gotten a lot of info to due the right thing.