A good friend gave me a 1970 70010 series long block that has always run beautifully- it's plugs are always in the same condition, the oil stays clean for ages and is barely down at 3000 miles for the next oil change. He had tried to adjust a ticking valve noise (1/2 of crank speed) that I and many other engine guys really though was valve noise. I acquired the engine and replaced the lifters, push rods and rockers didn't notice anything).

Still a ticking at any temp and rpm... Now here we go--->

Then, when I changed the old manifold for the TPI swap last week I discovered that three bolts holding the intake down were long enough to touch/interfere with three of the push rods. Perhaps 1/8 inch interference. I don't know if they were installed (before) over the push rods that are directly below the intake bolt holes but it is likely that one or two were... A stethoscope picked up the noise everywhere and maybe this is why.

Has anyone heard of this before?? I drew a map of the bolts that can interfere with the push rods but can't find it for this message. I think they were, from the front, the 3rd and 5th on the passenger side and the 4th on the driver side.

Any wisdom?

 

Yup, a pretty familiar problem....

I've seen people get a dead cylinder, and come to find out, the bolts completely LOCKED a push rod in place... Definitely something to watch out for.

 

Thanks for the feed-back. I'll know soon enough when the key turns on my new tpi and megasquirt2 setup!!

Soon I hope I'll be driving and tuning.

 

YES another megasquirt convert

 

Hello, hello! I've been hoping to find someone using a megasquirt with a sbc. I live way out in the boonies and everyone thinks I'm off my rocker doing this. How long have you been using your MS? Any troubles I should be aware of now? I'm just installing the computer and homemade main wire harness... Here is a pic with the proposed relay board location...

Do you have any posts that I can read before my questions begin? Regards, Jim

 

Are you going with the stock 8 pin HEI ignition? If so , I have a very relevant post for you!

It is over at the MSEFI forums.


http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t...er=asc&start=0



I finished my MS conversion at the end of last winter and got it running well over spring break. That would make it exactly a year and a week old. Still runs great.

 

Im getting to the point of me doing it. lol


Toehead, i forgot to ask, the coolant wire, do i plug the one from the ms to the yellow coolant wire? im sorta color blind so it may be orange, just not the black one right?

And the IAT wire, which color wire is it? LOl im double checking here so i dont screw this up

 

Coolant is yellow, air is orange.


Technically it should't matter which wire you hook it up too (it is just a resistor) , but for consistancy hook the MS up to the colored end and run the black wire and ground it at the same point you ground the MS.

 

Yes, I'm using a '92 computer controlled 8 pin hei, too.

 

Did that thread answer all your questions? I dont want you to have to figure it out yourself (well, with some confirmation) like I did.

 

Hi there, I just followed the ms2 assembly instructions and haven't had any troubles up to this point. The stim works and I've traded a number of emails with Matt at DIY about running the hei through the fast idle relay on the relay board. I don't know if it'll work but if I have time during the week I should have the fuel system finished so next weekend it will be time to turn the key.

I'm not using the VR circuit that came up as one of the steps an hei setup could skip, so i skipped it.

 

1) Actually come to think about it I do have a question- the IAC. I've read that the iac could be at any random setting from my donor car. I sure don't seem to be able to wind it in or out... How do I set up it's initial position? I do have the wiring diagram for it, so no problem there.

2) Do you know anyone who is running their hei as hall/optical through the optional relay board? I need to solder in a 1K resistor and want to do it right the first time ;-)

 

Not sure on the relay board. I never used one.

However, if you use hall/optical and the 8 pin HEI, you will have to do one of the tach mods that I list in that thread otherwise it will crap out on you on hot days. It will work every time on the stim though


For the IAC, I did it by trial and error. If you wait a week or so I can give you my final values for the MS and the tpi IAC.

What do you mean about initial position?

When you power it on, it will extend it by a number of steps to fully seat it, then withdraw to the cranking value. After that it goes to the warmup number in the table.
Im pretty sure you are talking about the initial extension value and the maximum retracted value.



Edit-

The default IAC values are actually pretty close, so no worries there about it causing any sort of problem.

 

OK, great. The IAC is installed and I'll just see what happens when I turn the key.