Ok, hopefully my first post isn't too stupid. I just got an '87 Formula 350 that the previous owner couldn't get to run. I turned the distributor and it fired right up and seems to idle and rev nicely. I'm about to throw the light on it, so my question is, where should I set the timing? I plan on running 93 octane, and doing the 180 t-stat asap. Other than that it's stock, but will be seeing mods as I go. Thanks for any info.

 

From one burnout to another (LOL), I'm not sure if it is correct for an '87, but for my '91 L98, stock timing setting is 6 degrees before top dead center.
You have a 350 TPI motor, right?
Bill

 

Yes, it is a TPI 350. Thanks for the quick reply. (Good to know I'm in the company of other Burnouts like myself)

 

Ok, now I'm confused. Like I said, the car wouldn't start so I turned the timing and it started. I just put the light on it and it read 10-12 (it seems to jump). I backed it down to 6-8 (still jumpin), put the single wire back on it, restarted it and gave it a couple revs which caused it to pop and break up. it ran much better at 10-12. Anyone have any ideas what may be going on?

 

wait like its moving as in its bouncing or its jumping time altogether and changing the setting?>

 

Harmonic Balancer slipped? Distributor issues? Timing Chain loose?

 

With an old motor, your best bet might be to use a vacuum gauge to set initial timing, providing that it doesnt exceed the total timing.

 

are you setting base timing with the esc connector unplugged?

 

Moving as in the light would hit 6 for a couple blinks, 8 for a couple blinks, 6 for a couple etc. I was thinking possible loose timing chain causing the jump, but my main concern was the fact that it ran decent at 10-12 and flat bad at 6-8.

Sorry, never set timing with a vacuum gauge, what's involved with that?

If the esc connector is the single wire with offset plug, that plugs into the driver side base of the distributor, then yes, it was unplugged for setting. If I disconnected the wrong wire, that would be awesome, it would solve my problems.

 

Not sure if unplugging that wire accomplishes the same thing or not, but the connector you are suppose to unplug is located on the passanger side of the engine bay to the left of the heater box, its a tan wire with a white tracer, there is a connector in the middle of it, that it where you are suppose to unplug it. As for setting timing with a vaccum gauge I believe that what you do is adjust timing until you reach the highest possible vaccum then back your timing off two degrees, although that just from memory and probably not the way to do it.. lol

 

On the computer controlled distributors, the ESC wire needs to be disconnected to set the timing. Checking the timing with the ESC connected will give a false reading.

If the timing mark is jumping all over the place, that's a good indication that the timing chain is worn out. A sloppy chain will constantly change the timing. If the engine is original, it's now 20 years old.

I finally installed a crank trigger on my race car this winter. The timing mark now stays rock solid.

 

How harmful is a slightly sloppy chain in a low rpm engine?

 

You probably won't notice a thing. Even a new chain is slightly sloppy.

 

Thanks again for the replies. I will look on the passenger side and see if I can find that wire. Hopefully it was my error and I'll get a better reading.

If the chain is worn/loose, I just hope it'll hold for a bit till I get to the head/cam part of my upgrades..lol

 

Grrrr frustration!! Found the wire and disconnected it, set up the gun and the car wouldn't start again. Turned the distributor until it finally started, and the mark was WAY off. It was pretty much flashing at straight up on the balancer. I played around with it, and with the timing at 6, I had to feather the throttle to keep it running (and it ended up stalling and wouldn't restart). Basically, it will only run by itself and restart with the timing mark at 0-4 AFTER TDC , and with it off the chart BTDC (guessing around 18ish-22ish BTDC. With the wire pulled though, the timing wasn't jumping like it was before, so I am no longer worried about a sloppy timing chain. Does this sound like anything obvious to anybody? My next step will be to replace plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and pickup coil, and check to make sure the distributor is not a tooth off while I'm at it. The previous owner claimed to have changed all of that except the pickup coil in an attempt to get it running, that's why I didn't do all that first. The funny thing is, before I put the light on it, I kinda tuned it by ear and it ran pretty strong, so I don't know what's up.

 

Even if the dizzy was off a tooth, the timing marks would still line up. You'd just have to turn the cap more.

The balancer isnt on right, or the pointer is off. If you don't want to replace that stuff, set it by vacuum. Pick up a cheap vacuum gauge, and hook it up to the intake manifold on the engine side of the throttle body. Set your timing to the highest vacuum and back off a smidge.

Im not sure how the comp controlled dizzy works, so I dont know how it will affect your total timing. Know what I mean?

 

Are you sure that you are using the number 1 cylinder plug wire as the reference for the timing light?

Number 1 is Driver side front of the engine.