QuickStyle

after getting my engine in my signature in the car and only having maybe 1-2 hours of run time on it, its already developed an oil leak, i have pin pointed it at the rear main seal. i made a previous post questioning about the rear main whether it be a 1 or 2 piece. i believe it was sofakingdom who answered it being a 1 piece seal with an adapter to accept a 2-piece crank, because i know for sure that the block is a 1 piece block. if that is true, how am i supposed to r&r the seal, i've replaced 1 piece seals before, but this does not look like its going to work.

squirted1

iTrader: (2)

to replace the rms on that setup, you need to drop the oil pan so you can remove the lower half of the seal adapter. On an original 2pc block, you would need to drop the rear main cap and oil pump, but I am not certain if you need to do that with this adapter. When installing the new seal, make sure the lip is facing the correct direction or it will leak again.

QuickStyle

so its basically a 2-piece seal. i was hoping it was a 1-piece. what would cause the seal to go out so fast like that. its a fresh 383 with im sure a brand new rear main seal. the pcv system is good. i dont want to replace the seal and then have it go out again cause theres another problem causing it.

iroczracer07

iTrader: (2)

This might be a dumb question, but...are you using a crank designed for a 2 piece rear seal set up or the original 1 piece crank? More importantly, did you have the crank checked for straightness at a machine shop?

QuickStyle

the crank is a 2 piece seal, the block is a 1 piece seal with an adapter to accept the 2 piece crank. i had the long block built at a machine shop, so as far as i know they took all the correct steps to ensure everything was ok with the engine.