Just got done tearing my SBC 400 out of my 92 formula to fix a Head gasket problem. Cyl #8 was full of coolant. Gasket was severly distorted. Machinest said I need head studs because of my Comp Ratio, and possiable some Det problems. So I studded the block with ARP, had the heads cut .010, Used Fel-Pro MLS gaskets, Installed a bigger cam , Replaced all gaskets, did it all on the engine stand. Put the engine in the car, fired it up. Oil leaking onto both collectors, Alot of smoke. Thought maybe it was the intake, even though it did not look like the intake because it was pretty dry. Removed and replaced intake gaskets, used alot of RTV and no cork seals both times, still leaks oil!!! Leaks onto the block where the top trans bolts are, on BOTH sides. ITS NOT the oil sender, I have it plugged and can clearly see its dry, its not the intake, can see that is dry, looks like its comming from between the head and block in the upper corners! But I asked everyone, and everyone says its almost impossiable!! WTF. Leaks pretty darn good too. I can also see the oil plug that is underneath the head, and that is dry. Remember, its on BOTH sides from approx same area's. Any help would be great

 

SBCs can certainly leak oil from the head gasket. It's always from the place you describe too.
If you look at the head gasket it has 2 "horns" that are on each end that have the lifter gallery on one side and the outside world on the other.
--> |\______/| <--
Now for the bad news.
When oil leaks from there it is almost always caused from the head being pulled down without following the torque sequence.
Example: Cletus takes his 1/2" air impact wrench and tightens the bottom row of head bolts first and works his way up.
Now I know you didn't do this, but if you didn't make 4 full passes torquing the head bolts, it won't hurt to make another pass on them after the engine has been run to operating temp. (something that needs to be done with composition gaskets)
The only other causes would be an error in decking the block or when the heads were milled...

 

Torqued it in 3 steps. 30-60-80ft lbs, each time at each value I torqued it 3 times. I even used 2 different wrenches at 80 just to confirm they were right. Both wrenches were Snap-on. And one was calabrated approx 4-6months ago. I just got done reading a thread on a sit called turbo boost, they said that these gaskets are too short at the horn area, and do not meet the intake, they said you have to put a small bead of silicone at the top of the horn or it will leak oil. But I dont know if there talking chevy or ford. They never say what make or model

 

That makes sense. Hell, put some on anyway...

 

Found out there talking about a Ford gasket, part# 1133. Mine is a 1144 gasket. Just got done looking at it some more, and it seems it also SEEPING from the front head area along the bottom of the head and the deck, and running down onto the oil pan, but very slight from this area

 

There's no pressurized oil going through the head gasket anywhere, which is why everyone says they don't leak oil. Oil can wick along the head gasket from the china walls though, which could make it look like a leaking head gasket.

 

What do you mean "China walls"?? Anycase, I asked a very popular engine builder in my area and he said the same thing the Ford guys were saying, the gasket does not go all the way up to the intake, stops approx 1/16 short, and must use a dab of RTV on the ends to seal. I smootherd the back of the heads/intake/block corners to see If I become the luckiest man on the planet. If it doesnt work, which knowing my luck it wont, the engine will be comming back out and the heads will be pulled off again

 

The china walls are the walls at the front and rear of the block that run between the decks.

 

Make sure youre valve cover gaskets are good and the bolts are tight. When I built my engine, I had oil leaking onto the collecters. Turns out my valve cover bolts weren't long enough (ARP bolts too). I ended up using studs.

 

Valve covers gaskets are Fel Pro Rubber/steel and absoulty no leaks from them, bone dry. I cleaned off the area where the block, head, and intake all meet on the back off the block. The I packed RTV in there and let cure for 24hrs. Started up, did a full WOT pulls, no leaks. Dont know how long it will last, but now I know it is from the head gaskets. They dont go up the full length of the China Walls. They stop approx 1/16-1/8 short. Must use RTV in this area, but IT DID NOT SAY THAT WITH THE GASKETS ANYWHERE!!!!