wire routing with edlebrock headers
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis
Car: '86 Trans Am
Engine: stout 350
Transmission: automatic
wire routing with edlebrock headers
Im putting my motor back together and was wondering how people with edelbrock shorty headers routed their spark plug wires? I had some trouble with my last set up becuase i had them everywhere and melted a few...
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,675
Likes: 3
From: Arab, Alabama
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 4BBL
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: wire routing with edlebrock headers
You might want to try some good old-fashioned wire looms.
You have to use 90 degree boots on the wires with most headers.
Here's some Hedman long tubes for an example:
You have to use 90 degree boots on the wires with most headers.
Here's some Hedman long tubes for an example:
Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 339
Likes: 0
From: costa mesa/A.D. the largest Emirate
Car: 88 Formula 350
Engine: 5----->.7 or so they say
Transmission: seven hundred with a remainder of 4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
wire routing with edlebrock headers
linkz761,
Yes they are a challenge but what I have done is two things and both have worked. First I measured and cut my wires and used both boot guards and heat shields. I like to err on the side of caution vs burned plug wires. Then you have to decide which way to route. Both have locations, because of the routing, where burning will be highly probable but can be avoided by using the heat shields/boot guards and proper placement.
Either:
1. From in between the header tubes and up towards the dizzy as shown in Supervisor's pic. The looms shown are for the perimeter style heads/valve covers. The center bolt heads also have looms out in the market. With this routing you have to position the boots at an angle. I watch out for cylinders 5 and 7 wires not to be tied together as the firing sequence is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 and though its not so pertinent but just a measure of precaution. So that is a way to route your wires but they are some what exposed and maybe you want them tucked away .....
2. Measure and cut your wires to route from the underneath side of the header tubes. This way you do have to use guards/shields to protect them from being burned but it is doable. On the driver's side, I routed them up from behind the 5 cylinder tube also behind number 7 tube or even behind the AIR transfer tube from behind the head. Then from then the passenger's side you can route them from under the tube but carefully place the heat shields so the wires don't burn where ever they would come close to contact. Then you are going to have to feed them either from behind the dizzy/head down or up routing next to the #8 tube and the cat converter's AIR tube. Make sure the wires don't lay on either. I've had to replace my #8 wire because it, over time, made contact with the 8 tube.
Just take your time while routing the wires which ever way you decide to take. Its a tight fit but it'll work out.
Rabi C.
PS Hey Supervisor ... is that a Radio Flyer trying to squeeze itself into the picture there??
Yes they are a challenge but what I have done is two things and both have worked. First I measured and cut my wires and used both boot guards and heat shields. I like to err on the side of caution vs burned plug wires. Then you have to decide which way to route. Both have locations, because of the routing, where burning will be highly probable but can be avoided by using the heat shields/boot guards and proper placement.
Either:
1. From in between the header tubes and up towards the dizzy as shown in Supervisor's pic. The looms shown are for the perimeter style heads/valve covers. The center bolt heads also have looms out in the market. With this routing you have to position the boots at an angle. I watch out for cylinders 5 and 7 wires not to be tied together as the firing sequence is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 and though its not so pertinent but just a measure of precaution. So that is a way to route your wires but they are some what exposed and maybe you want them tucked away .....
2. Measure and cut your wires to route from the underneath side of the header tubes. This way you do have to use guards/shields to protect them from being burned but it is doable. On the driver's side, I routed them up from behind the 5 cylinder tube also behind number 7 tube or even behind the AIR transfer tube from behind the head. Then from then the passenger's side you can route them from under the tube but carefully place the heat shields so the wires don't burn where ever they would come close to contact. Then you are going to have to feed them either from behind the dizzy/head down or up routing next to the #8 tube and the cat converter's AIR tube. Make sure the wires don't lay on either. I've had to replace my #8 wire because it, over time, made contact with the 8 tube.
Just take your time while routing the wires which ever way you decide to take. Its a tight fit but it'll work out.
Rabi C.
PS Hey Supervisor ... is that a Radio Flyer trying to squeeze itself into the picture there??
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Street Lethal
Power Adders
634
Apr 30, 2019 12:14 PM
theshackle
Tech / General Engine
4
Mar 5, 2017 06:37 PM
hectre13
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
6
Sep 8, 2015 03:38 PM





