I took my 84 2.8L and built a modest 355 shoe horned it in and had a blast. Now....Engine blew and all I have left is below. I would like the boards expert knowledge to put together a good solid motor..

My goal: Easily put down 550whp to the dyno with bottle or just motor. And be as trouble free as possible.

What I have left from my previous engine in more detail:
Carb: B.G. 850cfm Double Pumper freshly rebuilt with 1"spacer
Intake: Super Victor port matched to heads
Heads: Vortec 906's <Flow Chart Below> I can work the heads more if you guys think they need more help to reach said goal.
Trans: Art Carr TH350 Rated for 1000hp+, Anti-Ballooning Plate with 3800stall. No engine braking in 1st
Headers: Hooker 2460's
Exhaust: 3in mandrel bent true duals no cats. Dynamax Ovals
Rear end: 4th stock replacement with 3.23's "All free" Yes I know they will continue to blow but I have 2more so ill use those while I save for a built one.
Ignition: MSD Digital 6 box with HVC Coil and Pro-Billet Dist.
Radiator: Griffin =)
Fuel Tank has been sump'd for larger line and extra line for nitrous when needed.
Thats all I can think of for now.
With my goal in mind, what do you guys suggest. Thank's in advance you guys rock!

Flow Chart:

 

Those flow EXCELLENT !

550RWHP is like 700HP at the crank. NA, with vortec heads (even those wicked ones) would be next to impossible. Shoot for 450HP or so, and use a 200HP shot.
Short fill the block, use forged pistons, forged crank, H beam rods.
Use a big solid roller cam. Rev kit, etc. Talk to Bullet to get a custom cam.

If you have no block yet, use a 400cid engine.

 

Okay ive been looking for some 400cid blocks but there are quite a few out there, should I get an actual "race" block or just any from the local junk yards.. i think summit has some pretty nice ones but there like 1.5grand. If thats what I need so be it but if not then all the better.
Also for the crank, what specs should I be looking for? I see some cranks from Eagle have some differences such as stroke and Journal I think.

 

I've seen production GM late model 4-bolt 350 blocks hold 800 horses on boost, as 383s, so whether or not to go aftermarket for just 650 horses is your call. I know where to get a good used 400 2-bolt block that's never been bored. I worked at that shop like 2 years ago, they had a half dozen, and my price then was $100 each. So figure $200 plus shipping plus machining. Here's why I didn't buy any:
If you figure ARP main studs plus an align hone on top of boring, honing, and decking, you're closing in on $1000. So another $500 for a block that'll hold 1000 HP wen 650 is no longer enough? Good deal. Good peace of mind.
If you're gonna go 400, you may as well go 434 rather than 406. And a 434 isn't gonna live long in a production block that isn't filled and fitted with splayed billet caps. It costs more to do all that than to buy a Dart or World block.

 

Will that 434 still be decently street-able still as well as reliable. Thats a big factor..

 

Are these blocks overkill or something different.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

Either one of those will survive 1000 hp. A 434 is basically a 4.155" bore and a 4" stroke. You don't need to do it to make 650 crank hp to have 550 rwhp, but the more inches you start with, the less wild the engine must be, and the more like a factory engine it will behave.
Dart just released a new "Special High Performance" block, and www.competitionproducts.com is selling them for $1450, IIRC. And unlike the 2 blocks you listed, it accepts all the GM hydraulic roller stuff. It uses the superior 1-piece rear main seal setup, but can be had with siamesed cylinders and 4.125" bores. It's stronger than any mass-production GM 350 or 400, and several hundred dollars less than what you listed.

 

I can only see those SHP blocks in a 350. hmmm

 

Bump

 

they both have 350 main bearing, but one has the important part, 4.125 bore!

http://www.competitionproducts.com/p....asp?dept=1662

it's the second block listed. your choices are either to get a 350 main crank, line bore the journals, or turn down the journals on the crank.