Well, I'm annoyed to say the least. I have this remanufactured 350 carbrated engine and trans set up with performance parts. I ran it here and there for about 3 weeks., started right up and ran 100%. Now, it doesn't want to start. I took it out one day and drove for a while, came back to the house and it didn't want to start again. The started starts to go but it stops then makes clicking sounds then stops with an (electric motor wanting to go but either doesn't have the power or just can't sound(in lamest terms)) then it doesn't really want to turn over after that. I got it tested at advance where it wouldn't start the secound time. they said battery was fine, and the altinater* was fine. the battery is 1000 cca and 800 ca I think. whe it died the first time I jumped it with a battery charger we have then it started right up. the second time I got it jumped, didn't want to at first had to wait a sec. then it started right up, but the auto store just said the battery it fine??? well I was driving it and I was at a red light tapping the gas so it didn't die but it did anyways in the middle lane on a green light, people were not happy. the jumped it again and ran strong the whole way home, at the red lights I put it in "N" and rev'd it so it wouldn't die -sighs- but, wtf I had it at home same day changed the possitive cable from the bat. to the strater, did nothing really. then we put our charger on it, started right up and idled very well for 10 minutes then had the dads test drive it ran great, got to our first stop sign it kinda wanted to stall but he went the main road went around maybe 90 mph to the first light. I t was fine, idled well. then went home fine, tried to start it after we parked it....nothing. battery or starter, and the battery it at 12-13(on the guage it's under 13 a bit) before it turns over. it is said to have to have a new alt. starter, everything. and it really does. accer distributer. but the wiring is a nightmare to begin with wires going there going here, cut here and there. It's retarded, who ever was ****ing wiring this enging they had no idea what they were doing. Now it may be the battery but the guy tested and said it was good which puzzles me but it maybe the starter. but then why does it want to stall? then it's the alt. But why would it run perfetcly after it gets going and wants to stall when it's still warming up only. I'm personally thinking it's the battery it need hold the charge and I was thinking it wasn't cranking enough power but that impossible cuz I ran it for a while before this. but I am confused, I'm still a noob at these things to an instent. Oh yea if you reaqd this far It's not my camaro thats doing this it's the engine that I am putting in it, right now it's in an 85 suburban.

 

So, did you get a new starter when it failed at the auto store?
If not, why?

If yes, have you put a meter on the battery to check for resting current draw?

 

Well, if it's the starter, then why does it start when I get a jump and why would it want to stall when cold at a stop? I'm strapped for cash so I can't throw money around just yet till I solve this.

 

I had the same exact issue with my starter. It had a dead zone in the winding. Jumping it will start it but it's drawing more current than it ever should in order to do so. New starter, never had the problem again.

It's almost certain that the starter is bad. If you took it off and they tested it on their testbench and it failed to start at any time, then it's got bad winding. Most new ones you buy have a lifetime or at least multi-year warranty, so you would never have to pay for it again. Usually this happens if you overheat (starter coils like to melt their varnish off if you overheat and you have no type of heatshielding on the starter).

You could be stalling when cold due to inproper tuning of your carb. It's hard to tell without any info about what the voltage is when you are stalling. You said your battery was 12-13v, so i really doubt the stall was electrical. If you were stalling due to electrical issues you should see a vastly lower voltage on the battery (less than 10v) Plus, your alternator would have to be dead as well. Which you say you had tested so it isn't.

I would take some resting current readings if you have an ammeter to make sure you have no hard shorts, then put the key into the on position (right before crank) and take the current then too. Dont bother putting it on during crank though, unless you can handle the high current (>300amps ).

First take the readings, since they're free. IF you have no short while sitting, then it sounds pretty likely to be the starter is bad and your carb isn't working correctly (maybe bad tune or maybe malfunctioning).

 

You might be right right and more right there. It's a semi new engine with 1100 miles on it and it hasn't truely been tuned. the starter looks new but could be over heating from being too close to the headers it has hedmen headers on it that run close, but they cool very quickly to though. It only wants to stall running cold here in Florida I will have to let it idle for a while because it's done that to me before the starter gave way were it stalled while I was backing up and let off the gas and braked getting ready to shift but it started right back up. you may be right. I don't have anything that I know I can test it with, there might be something in the ol mans gerage but It would be packad. So, I am going to get the starter tested to see what happens. would the trans being a(I think here) a 3 speed auto have any needs for a heavy duty starter??

 

you were right. hahaha. It starts right up now. but now it's a slight carb tuning problem (I go in reverse and it wants to stall but the pettle is very sensitive and I reverse with it just idling with a small tap or two???) and a speedometer problem which I know how to fix x..x''

 

I dont know how to tune a carb. but i would get some heat wrap for the starter. They make it so it should be nearly a direct fit.

Easier than wrapping the headers (which is a good idea but probably cost more)