I'm trying to time my ignition and I've read you had to pull the above-mentioned connector. I thought I pulled the right one today (it was tan, but didn't have a black stripe like my Haynes Manuel said, came out of the wiring harness at the top of the left side valve-cover). I set timing to 0 and it doesn't seem right. My dad seems to think it should be reving faster than it is and it backfired the 1st time I reved it up This just had us thinking the wire pulled was not the est. Could someone please specify the location of the est bypass so I know??

Thanks!

 

Sticks out of the main wiring harness above the heater box. Single wire weatherpack connector. Tan wire, black stripe sticking out both sides.

 

Do a search for "Set Timing Connector" if you need a picture.

I've upload my picture in the past, but can't attach it to any new posts/replies.

 

 

Yes! A good photo!! Thank you soooo much Paulo! I've been searching on here for a decent photo and couldn't find one. The one I did manage to find was really bad and not much help. That is not the wire I disconnected! I'm gonna go try it again. I'll let you know how it goes!!

Cheers!

 

OK, I just went out and tried to find it but....it's not there! I took all the wires out of the loom, but there is no plastic connector like the one shown in Paulo's picture there are 2 tan w/ black stripe wires in it, but neither one has a connector? Below are a couple pics of what I'm looking at right now.

 

mine in my 91 is by the pass side hood hinge

 

I have a 91 too. I'm pretty sure I allready checked there, but I'll go double check.

 

BINGO!! I found it man! Thank you!!

 

noprob
happy timing

 

Glad you found the connector. Sorry about send you on a wild goose chase.

 

ok just to know i bought the car and this wasnt hooked up... so i hooked it up could i have a quick understanding of what this serves for?

 

I have the same problem but I have an 84' z28 I'm trying to find the same wire but I'm pulling my hair out trying to find it can anyone help.

 

It's not there but by your distributor I believe. Try starting a new thread to get better information

 

IIRC, on carb cars you disconnect the 4-wire connector that is hanging out of the bottom of the distributor.

RBob.

 

RBob is correct. You unplug that connector, start the car, and the dist goes to its base timing; the Check Engine light will come on while it's running; once you get it to the spec, you shut it off and hook it back up; then you can reset the CEL by disconnecting the batt, or you can wait for 50 engine start-stop cycles or whatever it is, to reset itself.

Be absolutely positively 100% ironclad take-it-to-the-bank ASSURED AND CERTAIN that it won't run as well as it possibly can at that setting. That IS NEVER the setting which is optimum for most people. "Spec" serves many masters... emissions, all-altitude driving, emissions, the fuel quality back in 1984, emissions, all-temperature capability from Death Valley to Yellowknife, emissions, CAFE, emissions, … oh in case I forgot to mention, the SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR in developing that spec was EMISSIONS. Making the motor run the best it possibly can was largely irrelevant. IOW don't expect some kind of miracle by following this procedure; in fact, you might even make your car run worse. Given that it basically never changes by itself, the only way it's different from the day it was built is if somebody has messed with it, it's not something you need to check on a regular basis, like it was back in the day with points ignitions.

 

2009 photo helping me in 2024 15 yrs later, thank very much!