EST bypass connector location??
#1
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EST bypass connector location??
I'm trying to time my ignition and I've read you had to pull the above-mentioned connector. I thought I pulled the right one today (it was tan, but didn't have a black stripe like my Haynes Manuel said, came out of the wiring harness at the top of the left side valve-cover). I set timing to 0 and it doesn't seem right. My dad seems to think it should be reving faster than it is and it backfired the 1st time I reved it up This just had us thinking the wire pulled was not the est. Could someone please specify the location of the est bypass so I know??
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
Supreme Member
Re: EST bypass connector location??
Sticks out of the main wiring harness above the heater box. Single wire weatherpack connector. Tan wire, black stripe sticking out both sides.
#3
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Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: EST bypass connector location??
Do a search for "Set Timing Connector" if you need a picture.
I've upload my picture in the past, but can't attach it to any new posts/replies.
I've upload my picture in the past, but can't attach it to any new posts/replies.
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#5
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Re: EST bypass connector location??
Yes! A good photo!! Thank you soooo much Paulo! I've been searching on here for a decent photo and couldn't find one. The one I did manage to find was really bad and not much help. That is not the wire I disconnected! I'm gonna go try it again. I'll let you know how it goes!!
Cheers!
Cheers!
#6
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Re: EST bypass connector location??
OK, I just went out and tried to find it but....it's not there! I took all the wires out of the loom, but there is no plastic connector like the one shown in Paulo's picture there are 2 tan w/ black stripe wires in it, but neither one has a connector? Below are a couple pics of what I'm looking at right now.
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#8
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Re: EST bypass connector location??
I have a 91 too. I'm pretty sure I allready checked there, but I'll go double check.
#13
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Car: 1984 Chevy Camaro Z28
Engine: LG4 305
Transmission: 700R4
Re: EST bypass connector location??
I have the same problem but I have an 84' z28 I'm trying to find the same wire but I'm pulling my hair out trying to find it can anyone help.
#14
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: stock
Re: EST bypass connector location??
It's not there but by your distributor I believe. Try starting a new thread to get better information
#15
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Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Re: EST bypass connector location??
IIRC, on carb cars you disconnect the 4-wire connector that is hanging out of the bottom of the distributor.
RBob.
RBob.
#16
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Car: Yes
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Re: EST bypass connector location??
RBob is correct. You unplug that connector, start the car, and the dist goes to its base timing; the Check Engine light will come on while it's running; once you get it to the spec, you shut it off and hook it back up; then you can reset the CEL by disconnecting the batt, or you can wait for 50 engine start-stop cycles or whatever it is, to reset itself.
Be absolutely positively 100% ironclad take-it-to-the-bank ASSURED AND CERTAIN that it won't run as well as it possibly can at that setting. That IS NEVER the setting which is optimum for most people. "Spec" serves many masters... emissions, all-altitude driving, emissions, the fuel quality back in 1984, emissions, all-temperature capability from Death Valley to Yellowknife, emissions, CAFE, emissions, … oh in case I forgot to mention, the SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR in developing that spec was EMISSIONS. Making the motor run the best it possibly can was largely irrelevant. IOW don't expect some kind of miracle by following this procedure; in fact, you might even make your car run worse. Given that it basically never changes by itself, the only way it's different from the day it was built is if somebody has messed with it, it's not something you need to check on a regular basis, like it was back in the day with points ignitions.
Be absolutely positively 100% ironclad take-it-to-the-bank ASSURED AND CERTAIN that it won't run as well as it possibly can at that setting. That IS NEVER the setting which is optimum for most people. "Spec" serves many masters... emissions, all-altitude driving, emissions, the fuel quality back in 1984, emissions, all-temperature capability from Death Valley to Yellowknife, emissions, CAFE, emissions, … oh in case I forgot to mention, the SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR in developing that spec was EMISSIONS. Making the motor run the best it possibly can was largely irrelevant. IOW don't expect some kind of miracle by following this procedure; in fact, you might even make your car run worse. Given that it basically never changes by itself, the only way it's different from the day it was built is if somebody has messed with it, it's not something you need to check on a regular basis, like it was back in the day with points ignitions.
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