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350 TPI want to build 383 stroker keep fuel injected

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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 07:11 PM
  #1  
sexyz89's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Minnesota
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI (5.7)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
350 TPI want to build 383 stroker keep fuel injected

Hi, I am new to the website. I have owned Camaro's since I was 16. I have a 89 IROC-Z 350 TPI. I have some questions on building off my 350 to 383 stroker. I do not know everything about cars but quite enough for a chick. I am not ignorant about cars. My camaro is not stock as I have the Edelbrock shorty headers and I have a high performance rear end with 3.73 gears switched from 2.76 some (Australian rear-end) I have Edelbrock rpm series exhaust and little minor things ect. Any info would be helpful.

Thanks!
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 09:50 PM
  #2  
Quick_Trans_Am's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,083
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From: Northwestern Pennsylvania
Car: 1985 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 with stuffs.
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10 Posi
Re: 350 TPI want to build 383 stroker keep fuel injected

Originally Posted by sexyz89
Hi, I am new to the website. I have owned Camaro's since I was 16. I have a 89 IROC-Z 350 TPI. I have some questions on building off my 350 to 383 stroker. I do not know everything about cars but quite enough for a chick. I am not ignorant about cars. My camaro is not stock as I have the Edelbrock shorty headers and I have a high performance rear end with 3.73 gears switched from 2.76 some (Australian rear-end) I have Edelbrock rpm series exhaust and little minor things ect. Any info would be helpful.

Thanks!
What are your 383 questions?
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 10:59 PM
  #3  
birdtojag's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 684
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From: Mesa AZ
Car: 87 Firebird, 90 bird coming soon
Engine: 355 Chevy Vortec Heads TPI, LT1 inj
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi 9-bolt
Re: 350 TPI want to build 383 stroker keep fuel injected

To tell you the truth, I think you might want to do a new engine on the side (get a truck engine from the junk yard). For a 383, a 4-bolt main block would do better for you. Machine work would be needed to bore out the cylinders to 4.030 (0.030 over) and make sure the block is good. A good cam would help as well to help the engine breath. With the cam, you would need to replace the springs on the heads and get new (screw-in) rocker studs (stock studs are pressed in and usually can't handle the extra cam lift). Stock rods are good, but the crank would need to be changed to a 400 crank. Make sure you get your parts before you bring the block to the machine shop because they would need to do work to make sure everything has good clearance. A good block to start with is one out of an 87 or newer chevy truck. That way you can choose a roller cam or flat tappet cam and not spend tons of money on retrofit lifters. With the roller cam, you will need to get a blocker plate to hole it in the block or the cam can walk out. Any questions, PM me.
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