1989 Camaro RS Won't Crank
1989 Camaro RS Won't Crank
Hello,
After 5 failed attempts at competing in the 24 Hours of LeMons (www.24hoursoflemons.com) in 4 cyl cr@p cars (placed 57th, 53rd, 7th (in an Escort of all things), DNS, and 97th), we finally located a $500 Camaro with 305, 5-speed manual. I'm beginning to understand why we got such a great deal.
We picked up the car in Dayton, NV. On the drive home, back to Carson City, I took it up the Virginia City truck route (the route of the VC hillclimb organized by the Shelby and Mustang clubs out here, in case anyone is familure with that event). The temp gauge read about 250 degrees F by the time I reached the top.
While stripping the interior I noted that the air dam was missing. From owning a 1986 Trans Am previously, I know that without the air dam, these cars are prone to overheating. Okay, note taken.
I drove the car to the DMV for a plate and then drove to work. Approximately 58 miles round trip. On the return trip I had to give a co-worker home. I gave him the warning of the sound of the obnoxious fuel pump before starting the car (most of the factory sound deadening material has been removed by now). We noted that about 20 miles into the return trip from Dayton to Carson the constant buzz of the turned into more of a moan. Note taken, I after dropping my co-worker off, I continued home. By the way the temperature gauge never reached 200 degrees F on that drive (which now I believe the temperature gauge is suspect).
I had to stop at the Save Mart to pick up a case of soda for a mechanic at work to repay him for unlocking the doors of the car in the parking lot because I happened to lock them inside that morning.
As soon as I stopping in the parking spot, the moan of the fuel pump returned to a buzz. Then the engine stalled. I turned the key to the start position and nothing, no click, no crank, no nothing. I went inside and figured I'd deal with it when I came out.
Got out of the grocery store and attempted to start the car. I noted that when the key was in the "on" position, the radiator fan came on (HVAC system turned off), but upon cranking the fan turned off and the voltage gauge indicated higher voltage in "start" than "on."
At this point I opened the hood and noted that the radiator overflow reservoir was excessively hot (could only touch the side of the reservoir momentarily). I also opened the fuel cap and heard air hissing either in or out (I assumed in as there was no smell of gas vapor).
Hoping there was some odd vapor lock thing going on I attempted to start the car again. Again, no crank, no click, no nothing.
I had the car towed home. Thank you AAA and free towing within 5 miles.
So now when I turn the key the security light illuminates momentarily. The check engine light illuminates and remains on. Checking for error codes 1-2 was the only one to display. I've had the battery disconnected for 24 hours and tried again with the same results.
That is the extent of troubleshooting performed so far. I am doing some more troubleshooting today.
I have done a lot of research on this forum and think the VATS system (especially since we "jimmied" the car open earlier that day) is the issue. But any additional thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Greg
After 5 failed attempts at competing in the 24 Hours of LeMons (www.24hoursoflemons.com) in 4 cyl cr@p cars (placed 57th, 53rd, 7th (in an Escort of all things), DNS, and 97th), we finally located a $500 Camaro with 305, 5-speed manual. I'm beginning to understand why we got such a great deal.
We picked up the car in Dayton, NV. On the drive home, back to Carson City, I took it up the Virginia City truck route (the route of the VC hillclimb organized by the Shelby and Mustang clubs out here, in case anyone is familure with that event). The temp gauge read about 250 degrees F by the time I reached the top.
While stripping the interior I noted that the air dam was missing. From owning a 1986 Trans Am previously, I know that without the air dam, these cars are prone to overheating. Okay, note taken.
I drove the car to the DMV for a plate and then drove to work. Approximately 58 miles round trip. On the return trip I had to give a co-worker home. I gave him the warning of the sound of the obnoxious fuel pump before starting the car (most of the factory sound deadening material has been removed by now). We noted that about 20 miles into the return trip from Dayton to Carson the constant buzz of the turned into more of a moan. Note taken, I after dropping my co-worker off, I continued home. By the way the temperature gauge never reached 200 degrees F on that drive (which now I believe the temperature gauge is suspect).
I had to stop at the Save Mart to pick up a case of soda for a mechanic at work to repay him for unlocking the doors of the car in the parking lot because I happened to lock them inside that morning.
As soon as I stopping in the parking spot, the moan of the fuel pump returned to a buzz. Then the engine stalled. I turned the key to the start position and nothing, no click, no crank, no nothing. I went inside and figured I'd deal with it when I came out.
Got out of the grocery store and attempted to start the car. I noted that when the key was in the "on" position, the radiator fan came on (HVAC system turned off), but upon cranking the fan turned off and the voltage gauge indicated higher voltage in "start" than "on."
At this point I opened the hood and noted that the radiator overflow reservoir was excessively hot (could only touch the side of the reservoir momentarily). I also opened the fuel cap and heard air hissing either in or out (I assumed in as there was no smell of gas vapor).
Hoping there was some odd vapor lock thing going on I attempted to start the car again. Again, no crank, no click, no nothing.
I had the car towed home. Thank you AAA and free towing within 5 miles.
So now when I turn the key the security light illuminates momentarily. The check engine light illuminates and remains on. Checking for error codes 1-2 was the only one to display. I've had the battery disconnected for 24 hours and tried again with the same results.
That is the extent of troubleshooting performed so far. I am doing some more troubleshooting today.
I have done a lot of research on this forum and think the VATS system (especially since we "jimmied" the car open earlier that day) is the issue. But any additional thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Greg
Re: 1989 Camaro RS Won't Crank
Update:
Upon troubleshooting I found a wire connector that was not attached to anything under the carpet directly forward of the clutch switch. The wires running to it were one (1) purple and one (1) yellow. I found the switch is normally open. Upon turning the ignition switch to start and the newly located switch to closed, the car started and operated with no unusual conditions. I have no idea what this switch does exactly and I can't find it in the wiring schematic in a Haynes manual for Camaros '82-'92.
Aftword I attempted to bypass the VATS starter enable relay with no success. Reattaching the VATS starter enable relay and using the newly found switch the engine cranks and starts.
Next I will try to bypass the resistor in the ignition key at the base of the steering column.
-G
Upon troubleshooting I found a wire connector that was not attached to anything under the carpet directly forward of the clutch switch. The wires running to it were one (1) purple and one (1) yellow. I found the switch is normally open. Upon turning the ignition switch to start and the newly located switch to closed, the car started and operated with no unusual conditions. I have no idea what this switch does exactly and I can't find it in the wiring schematic in a Haynes manual for Camaros '82-'92.
Aftword I attempted to bypass the VATS starter enable relay with no success. Reattaching the VATS starter enable relay and using the newly found switch the engine cranks and starts.
Next I will try to bypass the resistor in the ignition key at the base of the steering column.
-G
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