Alright, I've never built any form of a stroker, I've only built a 350 (had crank in it already). I'm 19 and am far from being very knowledgeable compared to most of you guys... and that's why I love coming here. I'm shooting for close to 700 horses at the crank between two stages of nitrous (100 1st stage, 150 2nd stage. Spray the first stage off the line and then spraying the 2nd stage along with the 1st stage up top).

I've been reading up on things a lot lately deciding the next motor I want to build.

I originally wanted to do a 383 stroker, 3.75 crank, .030 overbore, 6 inch rods. It got me to thinking though that 6 inch rods must be significantly weaker then 5.7 rods. So if I go with a 383, I'm still unsure if I want 6 inch rods or 5.7s... suggestions/feedback?

Next option is a 382 stroker, 3.8 crank, 5.7 inch rods. Keep the cylinder walls as strong as I possibly can; but is the bigger crank clearance that is being required going to be significantly weaker?

Next option (I assume a 388 stroker?) is 3.8 crank, 5.7 rods or 6 inch rods, 4.030 pistons. It would be the weakest setup, but how much power are we really going to gain?

I am buying the top end as a kit from edelbrock more then likely, it builds power until 6 grand and then starts dying down. Are 5.7 inch rods going to be able to rev out to 6 grand efficiently or is this were the 6 inch rods are better?

Am I just driving myself insane trying to over-build a bottom end? With the power I am making does it really matter if I have my cylinder walls bored and set up for 6 inch rods or if my crank clearance is a little more?

In my shoes, how would you have the block and bottom end setup?

 

IF building from new block i'd go 400 inch Dart SHP block. 1800 fully machined shipped to you ready to assemble. Get it from CNC BLocks Northeast. Carl will take care of you. Its nice block blueprinted and machined to very tight tolerances. Love mine. Get the rotating assembly done by him he can get whatever crank/rods you need. I got Callies in mine, same price as Eagle stuff from him. He will balance everything and all you have to do is drop the parts in and torque to specs. All clearances already checked.

Thats what I'd do if starting new...cost more money but more reliable and easier to make power that way. You can make 500-550 easily n/a with 400 inches and simple 1 stage 150-200 shot will get you 700 crank ponies. However, My 383 last year was in the low 600's with just 150 shot and very streetable. Just a straight direct 200 or 225 may have put me at 700


IF you do GM block and 383 inches or so, i'd probly stick with 5.7 rods just to be safe but 6" can work ok with proper piston. Get good heavy duty type piston like JE's for the nitrous. It will handle it.I had 6" on mine and the car handled mid high 10's at 128mph and 6600+ rpm on the bottle. 4.030" bore or 4" bore doesnt really matter. Just make sure if you bore it, have a good machine shop do it with torque plate with the type of bolts you intend to use or studs if you intend to use studs. Help's ensure you have roundness of the bore.

Over 6000 rpm 5.7 rods will do ok, but higher rpms do like long rods since it keeps piston weight down. Less stress at the bolts. But with nitrous you dont need alot of rpm to make power so you can just use 5.7 rods with good strong bolts and pistons and be fine.

If you are not looking to turn much over 6000 you'll probly be in the 450 ish hp range on motor and will need 250 shot to reach 700. 2 stages is nice for that and will work.

Definately build bottom end strong. 2pc blocks with splayed 4bolt mains are stronger than 1 pc blocks with splayed 4 bolt mains but regular 1 piece roller block with 4bolt mains should be ok. Mine had regular 4 bolt mains and did just fine. Just use main studs instead of bolts. I wish they were splayed for more strength but the motor held fine. I'd be confident in a 250 shot on that setup. Just didnt have the rings gapped for it.

I know alot of big boosted power guys do 5.7 rods for strength on the piston head which does make sense but as long as your tune is good i dont see a problem with using 6" rods.

I'd do direct port nitrous setup too to ensure best fuel/nitrous distribution but also depends on the manifold i guess since not all manifolds feed same amount of air to the 8 runners. SIngle planes work pretty good tho and should be used for your build.

IF EFI, i'd try a converted single plane and either an air intake elbow or MPFI style throttle body