i have a 3970010 block four bolt. I am wondering what are my limits on intake manifolds, cams, heads, etc. for example this is a block from the 1970's can i use 90's vortec heads? New to this and i would appreciate any response. i plan on going carburated also

 

Someone correct me if im wrong but im pretty sure you can run any head either old or new on the sbc but that determines what intake you can use. That block is a non roller block so if you wanted a roller cam you would need to convert it or just use a non roller cam. So if you have 90 vortec heads they would work but you need the appropriate intake to match the bolt holes on those heads. Let us know if that clears it up for you and if you have any more questions about the situation feel free.

 

010's are good blocks, high nickle content. They were used in most marine applications.

 

010 blocks are the single most common block ever made. You have what is referred to as a "garden variety", "vanilla", or "plain jane" block. I have the same 010 block in my TA, and I would guess 50% of the people on this board that have 350's use that block. Every application from car, boat, truck, RV, whatever used this block, there is absolutely nothing special about it.

It's a flat tappet style, so to use a roller cam you need to use a retrofit cam kit.

You can use any small block chevy cylinder heads, and the intake manifold depends solely on the heads.

 

whats the difference between flat tappet and roller cam? and thanks for the help everyone. so basically i can use any heads? i wont have to make special adjustments or drill holes? And the intake manifold depends on the heads i have?

 

You use any heads meant for an SBC 1. Not LSX heads, not LT1 heads, but standard, vanilla SBC1 heads.
Yes, intake manifold is either meant for "normal" SBC heads, or Vortec. (or LSx or LT1 style, but you don't have that block, so skip those choices).
See if the link in my sig still works for a skinny on camshafts.

 

You should double check the crank casting number or other measurements to make sure it really is a 350 - there were 302's with 4 bolts made with this casting number also.

 

Seriously.. I've had and seen a ton of 010 blocks. I can't think of a more common 350..

-- Joe

 

In all honesty the 302 was rare enough I wouldn't even bother looking up the casing number on the crank. You can use a tape measure to measure the throw and if it's around 3.48" length total, you're fine.

 

ok i appreciate the response. im pretty sure its a 350. would a 302 still have the 4 inch bore? also another question is it worth the time and money to go with a roller cam? or can i get just about the same results with a tappet style?

 

has any one heard of one of these blocks being a 400 small block? im looking at one right now but no 350 gaskets work for it but gaskets for a 400 fit exactly any engine savy people feel free to chime in thanks

 

Where doesn't 350 gasket match?
The bore , coolant holes, ????

 

No, it can't be a 400 with that casting number.

 

No they're not high nickel content, but that's not what the "010" refers to anyway.

 

ill have to look at it again i went threw like 3 gasket sets before i picked the 400 set i didnt think its possible i will have to relook and make sure i got all my stuff straight

 

yes the last part of the casting number is 010.....thats not high nickle though....usually on all sbc...."010" and "020" will be cast in the block under the timing chain, most usually, on 400's their in a variety of spots.....10% nickle and 20% tin.......you can have a 10 by itself or 10 and 20.....no 20 by itself.....the 10/20 350 is one of the two stock 350 blocks worth using in a mild build, its definately not a 400 block and id prolly bet my left arm its no an original 302 block......im sure its a cast crank.....if its steel....id look up the number.....ive seen one original 302 come through the machine shop in the last 15 yrs

 

Yes, that's the "010" that the high-nickle myth refers to.

 

i take it you worked at a foundary?

 

No.

This guy did, though. http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10896

 

Too bad he vanished in the middle of the discussion.

Was he a GM employee that got whacked for leaking info?

Or just a forum nut?

The world may never know.

-- Joe

 

Interesting read though.

 

i think its more like 1% tin & 2% nickel. not 10 & 20%.

 

In the 1960's when Chris Craft started using 350's to convert into their 350 "Q", flywheel forward model marine engine for both runabouts and cruisers, they used the "010" blocks. I have seen many of these in person. I also own a 350 that came out of a Bayliner with a Chevy/Volvo powertrain that is an "010" block.

I have personally looked at salvage blocks that had water intrusion into the cylinders. And while it was impossible to tell if each block had been exposed for exactly the same amount of time, the 010 blocks always showed less corrosion and cleaned up easier with less material removal required and less pitting. Some of these blocks were in decent shape, and didn'require another overbore at that point. We were quite happy to find a pair like this out of an old Chris Craft cabin cruiser, even though one of them was opposite rotation. That is easily changed.
That is not a scientific conclusion, but it is shared by several knowledgeable people that I know.

And while the 010 block may be "one of the most common blocks that you will find", saying that is also an unscientific method to use as far as determining the material of the block.

If they do not have more nickle in them than some of the other blocks, I'd love to know what it actually is that gives them what I, and others, consider superior durability.

 

In the 1960's when Chris Craft started using 350's to convert into their 350 "Q", flywheel forward model marine engine for both runabouts and cruisers, they used the "010" blocks. I have seen many of these in person. I also own a 350 that came out of a Bayliner with a Chevy/Volvo powertrain that is an "010" block.

I have personally looked at salvage blocks that had water intrusion into the cylinders. And while it was impossible to tell if each block had been exposed for exactly the same amount of time, the 010 blocks always showed less corrosion and cleaned up easier with less material removal required and less pitting. Some of these blocks were in decent shape, and didn'require another overbore at that point. We were quite happy to find a pair like this out of an old Chris Craft cabin cruiser, even though one of them was opposite rotation. That is easily changed.
That is not a scientific conclusion, but it is shared by several knowledgeable people that I know.

And while the 010 block may be "one of the most common blocks that you will find", saying that is also an unscientific method to use as far as determining the material of the block.

If they do not have more nickle in them than some of the other blocks, I'd love to know what it actually is that gives them what I, and others, consider superior durability.

 

The "010" as the last three digits of the casting number is something completely different from the "010" appearing under the timing cover.

 

These blocks are two piece rear main, correct?

 

correct, 2 peice rear main, in either a 2 or 4 bolt maincap.

i just so happen to have one of these blocks sitting in my garage. its in peices waiting to get put back together one of these days.

 

Any flexplate recommendations to swap a rebuilt 3970010 block with all internals for my 88 305?

 

More or less...

The oil dipstick would be on the wrong side, and the oil pan you have won't fit it, and since the crank is different you'd need a different flex plate.

Other than that, no problem.