Fuel pump issue?
Fuel pump issue?
I have a 92' Z28, this started happening the day after i got my full exhaust finished. car stalled out and wouldn't start, just kept cranking. I started to check things, no fuel in the fuel rails. checked fuses, there was one fuse blown but it was the ACC fuse.. fixed my power locks and dome light
heh. Tried replacing my ignition module, didn't work. tried hitting the gas tank while cranking the engine, it seemed like it wanted to fire but engine didn't start. any suggestions as to what i should do? I've almost done every test for the fuel pump i can think of.. I hope its not the fuel pump cuz just dreading having to take out my tank and take off the exhaust to get to the fuel pump
i have a full tank of gas too haha
heh. Tried replacing my ignition module, didn't work. tried hitting the gas tank while cranking the engine, it seemed like it wanted to fire but engine didn't start. any suggestions as to what i should do? I've almost done every test for the fuel pump i can think of.. I hope its not the fuel pump cuz just dreading having to take out my tank and take off the exhaust to get to the fuel pump
i have a full tank of gas too haha Re: Fuel pump issue?
I posted a thread a couple of weeks ago same issue. Here is the simplest way to troubleshoot your fuel pump. 91-92 don't have a fuel pump test on the ALDL OBD1 test port under the drivers console (steeringwheel column). So on the driver's side firewall (rear panel) by the brake booster there are two solenoids (relays) in a bracket and another one that is separate. You can swap out the two relays (one is the fuel pump relay) the other goes to the fans. You should be able to hear them clicking too after you try and start. If the fuel pump is not priming...it is most likely shot though if the FP relays are good.
You can also crank and if you see the oil pressure go up you no the sensor is workings. Back to the fuel pump relay on the firewall there should be a RED test lead next to the relay. Simply run a hot lead from your battery over to this and if your fuel pump is good it will run...if not you will hear nothing. You can also disconnect the fuel pump connector at the front side of the fuel tank underneath the car. I ran the same hot lead back to the connector just to make sure the pump was getting power to see if it would run...it didn't.
So if you apply power to the fuel pump and it doesn't run then you have a bad fuel pump. If it does run then check.
Fuel Pump Relay
Oil Pressure Sending Unit
and hopefully not
VATS or ECM.
I am replacing mine soon...my BIG contemplation is whether to cut in an access panel through the trunk or drop the tank. I my 2000 Camaro I cut an access panel and it was super easy as the later models use the Poly/Plastic fuel lines and quick connects. The 3rd Gens use metal lines and have to be cut and spliced with new high pressure rubber fuel lines...it will work fine. But I have a lift and it doesn't look that bad to drop my fuel tank...for others though it may be the only options as they may be working in their driveways or garages and/or don't have access to a lift.
Good luck.
You can also crank and if you see the oil pressure go up you no the sensor is workings. Back to the fuel pump relay on the firewall there should be a RED test lead next to the relay. Simply run a hot lead from your battery over to this and if your fuel pump is good it will run...if not you will hear nothing. You can also disconnect the fuel pump connector at the front side of the fuel tank underneath the car. I ran the same hot lead back to the connector just to make sure the pump was getting power to see if it would run...it didn't.
So if you apply power to the fuel pump and it doesn't run then you have a bad fuel pump. If it does run then check.
Fuel Pump Relay
Oil Pressure Sending Unit
and hopefully not
VATS or ECM.
I am replacing mine soon...my BIG contemplation is whether to cut in an access panel through the trunk or drop the tank. I my 2000 Camaro I cut an access panel and it was super easy as the later models use the Poly/Plastic fuel lines and quick connects. The 3rd Gens use metal lines and have to be cut and spliced with new high pressure rubber fuel lines...it will work fine. But I have a lift and it doesn't look that bad to drop my fuel tank...for others though it may be the only options as they may be working in their driveways or garages and/or don't have access to a lift.
Good luck.
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92camaroJoe
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Aug 13, 2015 06:07 AM





