Dropping the tank is easy, although I do have a lift so it may not be as easy for those to do if performing with a jack/jack stands.

Anyway after much consideration I chose to drop the tank to change the fuel pump vs. cutting an access hole. I did cut an access hole in my 2000 Camaro for a fuel pump replacement, because the 4th Gen uses vinyl/poly lines to the pump with quick disconnects (no cutting of the metal fuel lines)...but I always wished that I didn't do it....mainly because in a rear end collision the integrity of the rear cab (sheet metal) is compromised if the fuel tank is ruptured. If the car was turned upside down the access hole could easily lose the seal and not keep the fuel separated from the cabin...I guess I have seen first hand one too many crashes..with burn victims and just don't want to go out like that if possible.

So here is what you DON'T HAVE TO DO when dropping the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump..and the only mistake that I did. You DON'T HAVE TO CUT THE EXHAUST when dropping the tank.

Initially when I was dropping the tank I was going in order or what I thought was a logical order based on some things I read on this board and thought that the exhaust should come off first...it doesn't. Once I dropped the sway bar the rear end dropped about 3-4 inches. If I would have dropped the rear end completely to the point where only the trailing arms were holding it up...then I would not have had to cut my exhaust.

So in order.
Drop the rear end to the point where the trailing arms are the only thing holding the rear from falling on the ground...there is also the torsional brace from the tranny to the differential holding it up too. Don't forget the bolt that holds the rear brake line in place as it will attempt (stretch the brake line) to hold the rear end up before the trailing arms.

To lower the rear end just undo the shock bolts, sway bar, and cross brace. Then when completely lowered drop the exhaust out and the intermediate pipe/cat back will pull out over the rear diff.

Then take off the heat shields and disconnect the fuel lines. I place a two stage tranny jack that has a jack height of 78" and placed it under the fuel tank. I then took off the 2 bolts that hold the straps up against the tank and lowered carefully.

Overall taking the fuel tank out is very easy and only took me 2 hours to do...and that included having to take a hack saw to my exhaust pipe (didn't have my sawzall) which was about 15 mins of sawing by hand..

Like I said I have a lift so overall it was very easy to drop the fuel tank...easier then cutting an access hole and making it look correct (installing access panel, sealing, repair/replacement fuel lines, etc..). I have nothing against those that choose to cut an access holes, I just wanted to explain why I didn't want to and how easy it is to drop the tank if you have the right tools and know the correct steps.


I just have to weld up my exhaust pipe because of the error in steps.

 

Good info!

STICKY....

 

What the heck do people mean by dropping the rear end??? can u be more specific? what are shock bolts? and I don't understand about the exhaust and exactly how to get it out? where do i disconnect it? please help i'm trying to do this on jack stands just not understand everything i'm reading.

 

I didn't cut my exhaust either - I simply disconnected the I-pipe from the cat converter and wiggled it out over the lowered rear axle. But to do it on jack stands, you have to have the rear of the car raised up as far as you can (until the nose cone touches the ground). Takes a healthy set of stands and NEVER jack the car that high alone.

Shock bolts - the bolts that hold the shocks to the axle.

Lowering the rear - lowering the rear axle as far away from the car as possible without breaking the rubber brake line on the driver side. Only things that hold the rear axle to the car are LCA's, shocks, sway bar, panhard rod, torque arm - you remove all from rear axle except torque arm.

 

I wouldnt suggest dropping that rear against the old crusty rubber brake hose most of these cars probably have. Its a little bit of a PITA, but take the clip off the bracket on the body side, get the hose out of the bracket, and let the whole hard line and hose drop down without any funny bends. Otherwise... you may as well replace it while you're there. Once that is off along with the shocks, the rear end can drop far enough you can pull the whole exhaust from the cat to the back out of the car. It is possible to leave it in, but I wouldnt advise it unless you have no choice.

 

"Dropping rear end" means the tires, leaf springs, back axle, drivetrain, etc... in the rear, while car is jacked up.

I need to get my fuel tank out too, dry-rotted lines and possible escaping fumes at top. Dont want car to go "BOOM" on me.

 

i simply jacked the car high enough to let the rear end fully extend and then disconnected the panhard bar and brace. I had to tweek the filler tube a small bit, but it came out easily enough.

 

Ok, thanks for the help. Sorry I sounded so stupid in my last post I was just getting frustrated.

Anyway I was going by the haynes manual and it says to disconnect the exhaust from the CAT, well I tried this and its not quite working. I cant get the exhaust off. It is welded on right behind the CAT, then several inches back the exhaust pipe goes in the other pipe. So I thought this is where u disconnect it, theirs no bolts or anything touching it. So I put some WD40 and tried to pull it off but it will not come out at all!

So I'm wondering, if I drop the rear end like you said then will the exhaust disconnect from the cat converter? Any help would be appreciated.

Here's a pic: the red is where it is welded on and the blue is where exhaust pipe goes into the cat pipe or whatever and it will move like half an inch in and out but will not actually come out? Please help, thanks.

 

Thanks a lot, I am about to tackle this problem myself.