i'm wondering if you can put lt1 heads and intake on an 87 tpi 305? just take the 305 heads and tpi off and stick the lt1 stuff on will i have any problems?
thanks, Kegan

 

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=570520

lt1 heads are reverse flow cooled so you would need to modify the heads, waterpump or both

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...gen-1-sbc.html
^
theres how one guy converted the heads and intake for sbc

~Steven

 

being a 305 vs a 350 doesn't matter?

 

As long as your valves dont hit the cyl walls you shouldnt have a problem

Tuning it for the extra flow and compression changes is your job

 

the real question is why would you want to?

 

i'm getting it real cheap and all the specs are better than tpi...why wouldnt you want to?

 

As a formerly active member might have said in a situation like this, "A lot of maze for very little cheese."

 

so what would you suggest is the best intake setup for a tpi then? the intake is my main concern

 

On a 305? The stock TPI will be just fine. Your money is better spent on something else, like the machine work on a nice 350 block.

 

the intake will be going on a built 355 with brodix aluminum heads with a mild-hot cam. the tpi really does not give me top end and i'm looking for a better solution

 

Holley/Weiand Stealth Ram.

 

Curious why you started off talking about "on an 87 tpi 305", then.

 

because i have 2 camaro tpi's, and if i could just slap on some lt1 heads and intake on the 305 that would be good for me. but seeing that maybe thats not the way to go i have seen people swap the lt1 intakes and i could atleast use the intake for the 355 since i could get the lt1 intake cheap

 

is there somewhere that shows some flow numbers on this intake?

 

much more doable. still not a simple bolt on swap, but its manageable.

however the Stealth Ram will bolt right up AFAIK. never messed with one.

 

which do you think is the way to go though...HSR or LT1?

 

If you can find one get a stealth ram or mini ram since they're already setup for gen 1 SBC


And please resize are altogether get rid of the photo in your signature, that's ridiculous.

 

Sure you could but one question ,
where is your water outlet to radiator going to be ?
LT1 intake has no water in it , no thermo housing either
You can't put a LT1 waterpump on a reg SBC

Cheap option if you can do the machine work required yourself ; if you have to pay to get it done ,a aftermarket intake is prob cheaper and no leaks

 

275 CFM out of the box

 

have to use something like this and plumb lines to the front/back of the heads.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Weiand/925/7134/10002/-1

 

I know how to do it ,
I just wondered if the OP did as he was just going to "slap on " some heads and intake
With the LT1 intake conversion most tap the intake to line up with the rear coolant ports and run from there

 

A bit more than that actually

The 4 corner bolt holes are the reference but need to be reangled. The middle 8 are completely off and need to be filled/redrilled

The EGR mount much be cut of and the old passages closed by welding or JBweld. The intake gasket flange must have an extension added in the center near the head EGR ports or exhaust gasses will dump into the lifter valley

A hole must be accurately cut for the distributor and the floor built up and leveled for a proper seal

Most tap the rear crossover ports for the coolant lines because the fronts interfere with the TB cam. A remote T-stat housing must be used. It can be home made or the aftermarket unit posted above. I used 2 coolant lines for just the engine and one additional if you retain the heater core

TPI wiring will fit, the MAP, IAT and CTS wiring must be extended to reach, but the rest will fit fine. The TPI TB will bolt up and function well but for the best throttle cam motion use a LT1 TB. This requires updating the TPS and IAC connectors to the newer styles. 7 solders and thats done

A 93 throttle bracket must be used if you have a 700R4. It wont fit directly but a file will make your TPI cable fit. Older TPIs had shorter TV cables which wont reach the bracket. Use a 90-92 TV cable or go with the 93 piece

To clear the dist and AFPR must be used. Use anything that fits a LT1

Modify a set of stock quick disconnect lines to fit the fuel rail or buy fittings and build your own. PNs for fittings can be seen here. The diagram goes all the way to the tank, most just replace up to the frame rail in the engine bay
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...formation.html

If you need specific pics of anything, Ive got tons