My eagle crank has some wear on it, nothing you can catch a finger nail on but on some you can feel its not smooth as glass with your nail. Can I polish this at home with 1000 and atf or does it need to be ground down? Heres a couple pics, thanks

 

IF you can feel it.. buff it out by hand..forget the ATF.
just use the emry cloth and Buff. if after 5 min(on 1 jurnl) its not gone.

it might be time to turn..

 

Make sure everything is clean when you're done. Looks like there was some leftover debris in there from the last assembly that caused that.

 

I was going to take 1000grit sandpaper and cut it to width of each journal and use that. I dont have any emery cloth so will that work?

 

go to NAPA and get some..

with strips 15 to 20" long it takes no time to buff it out..
and is alot less work then short strips..

yes your 1000 gt will work.. its just the other is faster.
and not has much work.

 

I read an article that said to roll the paper around it twice, take a shoe string and run it over the sandpaper from end to end and move it back and forth. Do you think this is a good method? Why do you say no atf, shouldnt I have some sort of lubricant?

 

oil or water will attack the glue on emery cloth, used to Buff out cranks its not wet or dry.. and unsing it dry, makes clean up with Hot water a snap.

you use Hot water.. unless you have a cleaning tank with fresh..
(i mean Fresh solvent) in it.. hot water not warm Hot..

will not rust when you stand there and wipe it down.. you can also pop in in a oven.. or use a heat gun / blow dryer on it...to get all the water off and out..

use it dry..it works better.

even when its done i have used 2500 emry on mine.. looks like chrome when done.

as for the shoe string...?? dont know.. when holding the cloth strips you use on a crank.. the presher is even.. a string might make it press only in spots the string is..? never seen it done like that before..

after all your just checking to see if you need to have it turned.. start with 1 jurnl.. and see if you get it all Buffed out in under 5 min..

if it takes longer.. it might have to be done at a shop..

good luck.. let us know how it comes out

 

How wide are the strips? Do I cut 1' long sections and just work along the width of the journal slowly, then do the opposite side? should I look for 2500 grit?

 

can't tell for sure from the picks,but looks like time to
take it to a crank shop for a regrind-if any of the journal
end up oval or are still slightly grooved, could be spun
bearing waiting to happen

 

The cranks only got 6k miles on it, do you think it could be tapered or out of round already

 

Depends on how the crank mics out, if it already near minimum spec, and you have to polish .0005" to 0.001" off then your better off grinding it, have you miced it, personally for what it would cost, id just turn it 0.010", how many miles are on that crank, it appears to have had a large amount of deposits in the oil to cause that kinda of wear, we have taken apart blown alcohol BBC's that have gone 6.70's with 200+ passes and havnt had marking at bad as that on the journals.

 

I havent mic'd it but its never been cut, all bearings were std size, and from what Ive been reading the eagle stroker crank have larger main journals 2.45 as opposed to 2.448 so I guess that give me and extra .002 material to polish off. Hopefully I can polish a jounal today and mic it. Will a digital caliper work? Its got 6k on it and it was running @500hp with a 150 shot on it. A lifter retainer came off and turned 2 lifters sideways, there was definetly debris in the oiling system after that, which is why it looks the way it does.

 

why at this point in getting your motor right would you skip the machine shop

have them check it out

 

I agree....it is not very much to turn it if it needs it...take it down. I would even take down the rods to check them for roundness. You don't want to wish you had taken it down to maching shop the next time you're at the track.

 

when you are working on it..(eng) make sure to block off the Bypass in the oil fitler adptr.. this way none of the Junk gets out of the filter.

i just use a Pipe plug after tapping the adapter for it..

 

personally if I had motor out, I would take it down to machine shop and have him check EVERYTHING, not just crank and rods, but the line bore and cylinder roundness, just to be safe...especially on 500 ponies.

 

Yes, it's a good method. It's been around for a LONG time and I've used it several times over the years.

The shoe string better equalizes the OD pressure on the journal. Up with one end of the string while down with the other, repeat.

Jake

 

Im going to mic it and if its good Im going to polish it and if not to the machine shop it goes

 

It really should be going to the machine shop to get polished too.

 

Well its definetly going to the machine shop to ground down......