Combo is below. I am getting to much advance from my distributer at part throttle cruise causing my car to surge. I run 24 degrees initial and 36 degrees total timing all in by 2800 rpm. I was playing around with the idea seeing as it's free for me since i have the welder to do it. That way i could save some coin on buying an adjustable canister. What are your thoughts?

 

Go ahead and try it, what's to lose? If it doesn't work you'll have to buy an adjustable one anyhow.

 

yes, you can definitely do this. It's been done before. I've seen more than a few pictures of people doing this.

 

Crane used to make a limiting cam that would let you limit the amount of vacuum advance more easily than welding and filing the slot. I haven't seen it in catalogs for a while though.

 

That would be a good buy. I dug around a little bit but couldn't find anything. Apeiron, I run about 24 degrees initial and 36 total. I would want to limit the vacuum advance to 10 degrees +/- above idle at the initial total? That's what i'm understanding.

 

A lot of people weld them, which I have done, but now I prefer to drill and tap for a limiter screw. I'm good about getting the limit right the first time, but the screw is removable for future adjustment.

I also like to run a lot of initial advance (if no computer control), but it can be very hard on your starter unless you use an ignition kill switch for hot starting.

 

I'm curious to how the screw adjustment works. Do you just take the canister off and drill a hole larger than the slot and screw it in???

 

What I do is just a limiter that screws in from the outside.
I have one picture of one where I grafted a GM HEI advance unit onto a Toyota distributor body. It was a 4 cylinder distributor so the amount of vacuum advance (travel) was far too much.
photo:
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...623_medium.jpg

 

Ah i see. I'm running an old points style distributor without the points. Pertronix electronic ignition to take its place. I got the replacement canister that looks a little different than that. I would have to plug the actual slot somehow. I wonder is there is something else i could do besides weld. I don't want the slot to rust up or anything.

 

Braze it instead

 

I've never heard of that term before? Braze? Might be a stupid questions but I'm always up for learning something new.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brazing

 

If you want 12* max vacuum advance you want to leave about 1/8" of travel in the arm. I just take some fairly thin plate, cut it as wide as the arm on the canister and zap it on the edges with the welder to hold it in place. That way you can easily break the welds and move it around or take it off.

I was thinking of making my own kit with an adjustable version of this basic idea that's screwed down instead of welded on to allow for adjustability.

 

Cheap and easy.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66952C/

 

Very good idea Damon! I think this is the route I'm going to go. Does that 1/8" of travel work for the points style canister? Or is that HEI? I'm not sure of the differances.

 

I have the points style dizzy, not an HEI. I'm running the Pertronix electric ignition w/ revlimiter in place of the points.

 

Sorry, go with this one then.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Accel/110/31034/10002/-1?CT=999