Alright folks, i posted before about this issue, and didn't get much response. so here i am round two. the car runs fine starts right up, drives down the road great. coming up to a stop sign/light and downshift to stop and will stall out every time. if i push the clutch and stop using only the brakes it drops to idle just fine, until today. i reset the TPS sensor to read about .5 volts at idle and it reads about 4.3 at wot. changed the IAC valve and tried to set it. turned the ignition on for well long enough to smoke, disconnect it start the car plug in my actiontec scanner idles at about 750rpm. drop down to about 500, any less it dies. unhook scanner shut off car, plug iac back in drive around for about 30 minutes, now it just stalls all the time no matter what. any advise is appreciated thanks.

1987 Chevy Camaro IROC z-28 5.0 TPI w/ T-5 5-speed.
P.S. this is my daily driver and i really need to get this figured out, thanks

 

Could it maybe slop in the throttle shaft. I'm playing around and it seems a little sloppy but i don't know if it is normal or not, i'm just thinking on lawnmowers and such that i have most experience in if the shaft gets sloppy then it will suck air. can the same theory be used on this. thanks

 

Funny (actually not really), but I'm having the same issue on my '88 LB9 5spd.
Mine started after I got the car running from a host of mods and it was idling @ 1100. I reset the idle per the instructions on the FAQ page and now it does the same thing as yours. I'm going to try resetting the IAC and TPS again. I'll let you know how it turns out....

 

Hey, this has been very frustrating, but i still haven't figured it out. I'm taking today to work on it amongst a bunch of other issues. I changed the speed-o cable, changed a bunch of lights in the dash, mini starter, oil change, put in hawks ram air baffle kit thing, still have to get the driver door hinge pin kit done, I'm readjusting my lifters they seem a little noisy, and I'm going to double check the timing as well. I thought it was interesting though to that I called my local dealership to figure out what the factory idle was supposed to be and they told me 400 - 450 rpm. I laughed there is no way. I'm guessing like 800 or so is more realistic, so i will probably play with that to. let you know if i come up with anything, but right now I'm lost.

 

Well, I started over and double checked my timing ( it was correctly set @6), fuel pressure, reset my IAC and TPS and my problem is solved. car runs great now.
I also pulled my plugs and cleaned them.

 

How do you reset your IAC valve...where is it at? I am having a problem where I can start the car drive it around then when it gets hot, it will barely start, and then act like it wants to stall. I can limp it back home and then when the car is cool it starts up and runs fine.

 

Make sure your timing is set properly with the EST disconnected.
then try this:

https://www.thirdgen.org/tpimod2

heres an IAC reset article with pics:
http://www.iroczone.com/2009/10/clea...rol-iac-valve/

heres a TPS reset article with pics:

http://www.iroczone.com/2009/10/adju...on-sensor-tps/

make sure you do the IAC first.

 

Check out my problem with hesitation and stalling:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...r-now-car.html

I'd make sure you have good fuel pressure AND flow. Of all the things that the computer should be checking and monitoring the stinkin' fuel pressure and flow aren't two of them. And to think everything else is trying to function with the assunption that fuel will always be there at the right pressure and volume!

 

good point Jeff, doesnt hurt to check the fuel pressure ( I did)....