Hi guys, I'm looking to buy a solid roller camshaft.

This is my engine:

350 3970010 bored .030 over
GM steel crank
GM pink rods
TRW forged flat tops with valve relief
World Products Sportsman II's - 64cc, 2.02, 1.60, 1.5 rollers
Edelbrock Victor Jr single plane
Comp Cams 286H Hyd Flat - 286/286, .490/ .490
Holley 750 mechanical sec
B&M Holeshot 3000 converter

I'm looking at the following cam:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL12-771-8/

I'm hoping the new cam will match up a bit better with my intake and heads. Opinions welcome! Thanks!

 

Anyone? Been looking at camquest 6 and it's telling me either the XR280 or XR286.

 

Should rock and roll....Then ur gonna want to Port the heads and intake to match the cam, and later step up to 1.6 rockers and install 2.08 intakes when doing the heads.....You could make 550-560hp.

 

It'll Like a 4500+ stall too....what you have will work for now, but plan on upgrading...

 

Friend of mine has a similar cam in his 406 and it probably peaks in the 6000-6200 rpm range. On a 350 it will go much higher. Do you really need a solid roller?

I wouldnt be spinning those rods that high without good bolts. Pink rods arent known to handle those kinda rpms.

Plus you would want more converter than that. Whats your current compression ratio?

 

I'm not sure if your looking for a track setup or not but when I e-mailed Comp Cams for a recomendation for my motor they told me the one in my sig. Not sure the grind number but its a 236/236 @.050" with .550 lift. It pulls solid to a little past 6000. I've also got enough vacuum to run my power brakes at idle. Although I will admit that I have thought of going to a slightly bigger cam.

I can also tell you that when I had a 3500 stall in, the car would sit still and spin the tires without ever touching the brakes.

One last thing, is that block one of the newer 1 piece rear main blocks? I'm asking because I first bought the wrong ones. The newer blocks use taller lifters and they cost $100 more.

 

Compression ratio is an estimated 10:1. The car sees the track once a month (If there were races more often here it would be more), and I drive it every weekend on the street. I live on an island so no highways for me . The motor will turn 7000 RPM's. It has all ARP bolts and a very good balancing job. I feel like the cam that's in it now doesn't match up with the heads and intake. The power is really dying off at anything over 5800. I would like to be shifting at 6500. The block is a 69-79 sbc. Thanks for all the input. Really appreciate it!

Oh and z28freak, I don't think we ever stop planning to upgrade...

 

Remember, too, that you can't directly compare a hydraulic cam with a solid. To achieve the same results a solid has to have 8-10 degrees more duration. Has to do with the valve lash called for by a solid.

Jake

 

Thanks for the tip. I'll let everyone know how it works out when I get the new cam. Thanks!

 

Installed the cam saturday. I went with the XR280. Car feels great and idles suprisingly well :P. Just took it out for a spin around my neighborhood. Haven't played with jetting yet. I ajusted the valves cold and put them on .022 intake and .024 exhuast valve lash. While the cam card says .018 intake and .020 exhaust. My neighbor/mechanic said he always had issues with cars not running well with such tight valve lash. So I decided to do just a little bit more. Any problems with this? This weekend I'll warm up the engine and re-do the valves so let me know. Thanks for all the help!

 

Set them with motor warm as the card should specify hot lash. Chances are things will tighten up when warm so your cold lash settings may be closer to card spec afterall.

Tighter lash is usually good for abit more lift on the cam and gets all the usuable duration.

 

Allright, I'm gonna re-do them this weekend. I'll let the motor warm up and set them exactly as the cam card states. One more thing: I'm probably gonna have to put in higher jets right? We haven't gotten around to tuning it yet but just to get an idea. Thanks

 

Allright, just a little update. Took the car to the track last Saturday. Got second place in my bracket class. Car went from doing 13.40 @ 100 with the 286H to 12.99 @ 105 with the XR280. Car felt really good, went smooth up to 6000 where I shifted. I'll have to wait for the test and tune but I think if I shift at around 6500 I could see a little improvement. Also have not tuned the car yet, plus the weather was awful for racing Saturday. So I'm very pleased with the results. Thanks for all the help and input!

 

The 4/10ths improvement makes the swap feel worth it. Want another 4/10ths? Swap to RHS Vortecs, the ones that come ready for the 2.02/1.60" valves you already have. Then since they require a different intake, go with the RPM AirGap, to be sure the improvement is 4/10ths. You're still not turning enough RPM to be benefitting from a Super Victor. The Victor Jr is a restriction, so unless you run nitrous, sell it.

 

Gonna be running nitrous soon... very soon . The problem is I live on an Island in the Caribbean and getting parts over here is either very difficult or very expensive. I'm not going to change the engine setup. The engine i have was doing 11's with a bigger roller cam, transbrake and higher stall converter in a 1972 camaro. I bought the entire top end from the guy for a great price. The car is perfectly streetable as she sits so I don't really want to change anything else. Except for some tuning and installing the cheater kit. Thanks for the input though!