I'll try to be as detailed as I can. About 3 weeks ago I tried to pull up some codes, which I didn't get any, but I forgot to pull the jumper wire out of the A and B terminals. In my manual it said not to start the engine with AB grounded, but I did. I actually drove it like that about a half a mile to the muffler shop and back. When I got back I realized I forgot to pull the jumper wire out, and that's why my car ran like crap.

On to the next thing, I noticed a knocking in the valvetrain. So I pulled the driver's side valve cover off, and one of the rocker arms was completely off the pushrod. Got another pushrod, tightened the rocker down. Started it up, and there was still a knocking sound. So I halfway pulled off the pass. side valve cover and checked under it. It looked to be okay but there was still a knocking sound. At that point I decided to take the manifold off and check. Did that, and one of the rocker arms on the pass. side was loose. I tightened that up. I put the manifold and everything back on correctly. The only thing was that I tightened the driver's side valve cover down on a pigtail and broke the a wire on it. So I bought another pigtail and put it on. So now everything is good and now it's time to crank it up and see if it's still knocking right?

No. It turned over and wouldn't fire. From that point I've checked the fuses, the grounds, replaced the ignition module, primary coil, distributor and rotor cap, even a new ECM and it still won't fire. I don't know if I screwed something up when I drove it with AB terminals grounded or what. I'm hoping somebody here knows something or can tell me something that could be the problem before I spend more money to take it to someone.

 

Did you make sure all the wires from the cap are connected to the proper locations and not reversed?

 

Yes, I used my Haynes manual to make sure all wires are connected to the right plugs.

 

TPI or Carb?

How did you check for spark?

 

Carbed. I checked for spark first by putting the end of a bolt into the end of the plug wire, and putting the head of the bolt onto a good ground while I cranked the motor. The was no spark. I did the same thing for the wire from the coil to the cap, and there was no spark. Then I used a voltmeter to test for voltage with the ignition on. I tested the plug wires and there was no voltage, then I checked the coil wire and it was getting about 11.7 volts. I forgot to mention that I tested for voltage from the coil to the pigtails to the module and it was good. The only thing was there no output voltage from the module. There was even voltage getting to the rotor button, but it still wouldn't fire.

 

double check your Ignition module, make sure it's plugged correctly... the

pick up coil if equipped could have been damaged and not recognizing the engine is cranking... other than that, can't think of anything else... you say you took the intake out, so something may have either been re-installed wrong or was damaged ... the 85 if it's like the 2.8 camaro, then the ignition module will have a plug at the back that I believe connects to the pick up coil... double check that first ....

 

The first ignition module I bought was actually bad. Then I bought another one and had it tested and it tested good. Unless the test O'Reilly does on the module messes it up in some way, it shoud be good. And believe me, I've double and triple checked everything I would have taken off, and it's all on there good. The pick-up coil could be bad though, it tested good on continuity but I don't think that's the proper test.

 

oh man.. you bought it from Oreily? did you get their brand or BWD? I bought an ignition module for a 89 and it was crap... warrantied the first one, got a second one same brand and it too was crap although with the second one it fired up, but still ran like crap, went back and talked it over with the manager and he offered to give us a discount on their BWD line... ended up paying 150+ tax vs the 95 dollars I paid for their store brand... this was for a DIS system...

back to the birds... I actually have a brand new BW and a used Accel module which I keep just for diagnostic purposes... you see if there is juice going into the module but none coming out, well it kinda points to a bad module... you should go back and tell them your findings... also you should write down the diagnostic steps you have taken and share them with the manager on duty, maybe he'll give you a discount on an upgrade...

 

I think it was a master "something" ... CRAP IF YOU ASK ME...

 

You didn't check for spark all you did was ground out the plug wire. Use a spark plug connected in the wire as if it were installed in the head but the end of the plug to the end of the master cylinder housing.

You can't check for voltage using a multimeter on your plug wire its at least 30,000V.

 

I check my spark with a screwdriver then I leave a gap between ground and the screwdriver... I say the bolt method is the same thing.... nice bright spark is good spark in my book...

 

He said onto meaning its touching the ground. Making it ground out...That could be why he isn't getting spark

 

If you are grounding the head of the bolt it's not the same as the screwdriver method. The handle of the screwdriver is normally insulated. The head of the bolt normally is not. Naturally, if you insulate the bolt head well enough, it will work just the same as the screwdriver method.