so i got my car running... it sounds good nice strong idle. but it has no power!! it just sounds tough. i put the timing advance springs and stuff in the dizzy. got the timing at 12deg advanced. and it starts and runs good just no power. i put a vacuem gauge on it to check the valves and it shot right to the possible leak at intake mani or late valve timing.

and it cuts out around 4500 rpm like a miss or rev limit

 

somehow you still haven't given enough info. Is this the first time you've ever had this engine running? Did you build it yourself?

 

yea i got this motor in a i took apart to convert my car from a 83 body style to a 92 body style.

the code on the back says its a gm peformace 350hp/400tq 350. it has a good idle and has good compresson. i took the msd off and am running stock hei. i just did the advance kit with the second (sliver springs) and have it at 12 before with the vac unhooked. ive never had this problem before. and this is like my 6th motor in this car... and no i never toasted a motor in my life..

i have a reciept for the motor and the code matches. says there is less then 1500 miles on motor. had 175compression across the board (ithink)
the rotating assembly is balanced and blue printed. trw pistons and gm rods.

ive tryed a couple diffrent carbs holley double pumper. holley 4160 600cfm
carter. still yet to try the 750 edelbrock.


you think if i changed the intake gaskits it might show a better reading. or if i actally put a plate for the square boar to spread boar? or are my valves to tight to loose?? the gauge was solid in the red saying intake leak or late timing...

 

That engine should be pulling at least 14 inches of vacuum. "red zone" on a gauge I've never seen tells me nothing, so let's use hard numbers. Stock 350s should pull 18+, but this isn't a stock cam. It's a 212/222, .435/.460, 112.5 at 109 cam.
Having 12 degrees initial is fine, and about 32 degrees total is good.
If your vacuum is under 14", then get some WD40 and spray it along the intake gaskets with the engine idling. If you have an external leak, the rpm will increase for a second when the engine sucks the WD40 in through the leak.
But even if you get nothing, the intake gaskets could still be leaking from the lifter valley.

 

 

Where exactly are you hooking your vacuum gauge to?

 

he's right. I was too tired to think of that. What are you connecting it to?

 

you can see it in the pic.. i put it where the vac advance goes and it just stuck in the black 0psi

 

No good. That's not manifold vacuum, that's ported vacuum. No wonder you're not getting any useful reading.

 

ive put the hose everywhere i can and still get the same reading.. ill put the holley back on and see if its diffrent

 

Are you running a spread-bore intake manifold?

 

yea i am..

 

got the car running better. and it can actally spin the tires now...
put the msd back on gapped the plugs to .040-0.045
put a spacer that goes from spread to square boar
put the holley on changed the prim squirters from a 25 to a 35
and here the funny part..

to have the car idle in the green on the vac gauge it has to be timed to around 15-16 advanced. no way thats going to happen on my street driven car... so i got it set around 13-14 with the second set of springs and weights in the dizzy. it has good power but i know there is more to be tuned out. as it sets right now the gauge is still in the red but its right before the green. ( next mess with the valves)

at 16 advanced it did good just would not restart after a shut off. (maybe a battery) and it would cut out and mid range rpm kinda like a rev limit (maybe coil or pick up?)