So went to start my car this morning it wont start. last night i was welding in new floor pans and never disconnected the battery. Could that have caused it to not start now?

 

well lets start with the basics. wat is it doing other than not starting??? light come on? dose is click at all. fuel pump coming on?

 

yes its clicking but not turning over. i just pulled a spark plug and it was dry so i assume its getting spark but no fuel. also i cant see the fuel coming from the tbi injectors when i had a buddy try to start it. are there any fuses i should check if so which ones?

 

get a volt meter see how much volts your batt has and wat it is going down to when you try to start it. than go from there. there should be a fuel pump relay fuse somewere.

 

There are INJ fuses in the fuse box. There is a fuse tucked in the fender pass side behind the battery that is also fuel pump related.

 

check them all see if any are blown

 

just took the battery to autozone. they said its 50% charged so they are charging it now. the inj fuse is good. would 50% be enough to turn it over?

 

no way yeah get batt charged throw it in and see wat happens bet that was it bad batt

 

so just got home. threw battery in and same thing. nothing. this sucks.

 

so its not turning over at all?? the starter is just clicking???

 

no i guess i hear the starter clicking and it is turning over well. not exactly sure what turning over means but i assume the crank turning to drive the alternator and such so if thats what it means then yes. the serpentine belt is going and i hear starter clicking but it just wont start

 

so i can hear the fuel pump when i put the key in. which spark plug should i disconnect to check for spark. cylinder 1 right? where would that be?

 

so a buddy said i might have fried the computer. what can i do to check that. the car is not getting any spark or fuel

 

I think I replied to your other post maybe. Try getting the SES light to flash the ECU functional code (12) by doing the old paper clip trick. Stick a paper clip in the two far right ports on the plug under your dash. Look it up, there's probably a sticky somewhere that will give you better directions.

 

ok just did the paper clip trick and got code 12 over and over again. so this means my computer is working right? so now what seeing im not getting any spark or fuel

 

no spark or fuel sounds like a vats issue to me, but unless your start enable relay was bypassed, vats wouldnt let it turn over either.

by "turn over" we mean the starter engages the flexplate/flywheel and spins the engines rotating assembly.

 

#1 cylinder would be the closest one to the front of the car on the drivers side. but you can pull any plug to check spark.

 

ok well i pulled the plug closest to the motor on the passengers side and no spark. also no fuel injected from injectors. the engine is turning over but not starting. it was all running good two days ago and then i welded on the floor and the next morning when i went to turn on the car... it wouldnt start. and thats were i am no. no spark, no fuel being delivered, there is gas in the car, battery is charged, (someone said i may have fried my computer but i did the paper clip test and got code 12 to flash over and over so i believe this means my comp is working.

 

what is vats? would that just suddenly change and could the fact i welded on the car without disconnecting the battery have caused this?

 

vehicle anti theft system. your key has a "chip" in it. its not really a chip but a piece of carbon, with a certain level of electrical resistance. vats reads that resistance and sends a signal to the computer to allow the injectors to work and the distributor to allow spark. it also grounds the start enable relay to allow the starter to function. so unless someone has already bypassed the start enable relay it wouldnt let the starter turn over if it went out. im no expert on the vats system though so maybe it would still allow the starter to function, anyone else know this one?

 

Turn the key to the ON position, and note the 'Security' light. Is it turning on briefly and then going out, or is it coming on and staying on?

 

VATS will not allow starter to run at all - all accessories work (ie radio), but starter will not turn or even click.

 

well its turning over so does that means vats is ok?

 

the security light comes on but then goes right off.

 

if you arent getting fuel to your injectors, my guess is fuel pump relay or a fuel problem

 

Yep

 

wont start with starter fluid so i must not be getting spark for sure. gonna check the ignition module

 

easiest (and most fun) way to check spark is: pull off a plug wire and have a friend stick a finger in it and hold the body with his other hand. then you turn the car over. if you hear him scream like a little girl, then youre getting spark

 

yeah well we just did and he didnt scream so i guess im not getting the spark. what should i check next

 

take a volt meter and check to see if youre getting power to the coil, if you are, check to see if youre getting power out of it to the distributor. if both of those check out, check if the distributor is getting power. if it is, then its something in the distributor itself.

 

well i took the spark plug wire that connects the coil to the distributor center and disconnected the end that goes into the distributor cap. i then put it near a ground and cranked the engine over and no spark. this means im not getting anything coming out of the coil to the distributor right? or am i completely wrong here.

 

it wouldnt spark from cranking the engine if i remember correctly, but im not entirely sure. you really should go to autozone and rent/buy a voltmeter tomorrow. ive got a 90-92 dealer service manual and can walk you through all the checks to find the problem, but you need a volt meter/ohm meter to do the checks. a good digital voltmeter will set you back $30-$50, which isnt bad considering just how useful they are.

 

you say its turning over, but no fuel or spark?? and you say the starter is just clicking?? i don't mean to sound rude, but do you know what "turning over" is?

 

i actually just bought one tonight but don't really now how to use it haha. i'm pretty new to electrical

 

we already established that the starter is spinning and turning the engine over, but not starting

 

if you post a pic of the selector dial i can show you which one is volts and which one is the ohm setting.

 

no the starter is not "just clicking". serpentine belt starts to spin and alternator starts to spin as well so i assume the crank would be turning to turn the belt and these accesories. i might be wrong in my definition of "turning over" though so if you could tell me what it really means that would be helpful. i thought it meant that the starter turns the flexplate which turns the crank which will start the engine cycle...

 

sorry i didn't mean to sound like an ***, but i was getting confused with all the posts. i may just be repeating but if you welded on your car and didn't disconnect the battery, you could have popped a fuse or maybe ****ed up a relay, you could very well have fried the pcm or ecm.

 

dont worry bout it. so to answer these i have checked most of the fuses and all were ok. i did the paper clip trick to check the ecm and got code 12 over and over so from what i have read i guess that means my computer is working. as far as relays go i have no idea how to even check those. not sure where they are either.

 

so this is the multimeter i bought. kinda messed around with it for a lil and seemed like everything i tested in volts was getting .8 on the 200m setting. like i said i really have no idea when it comes to this stuff

 

that 12 just means that you entered the mode where you can get the DTC's. so you didn't have any codes. if you didn't know, it will flash "12" a couple times, then flash the code number, then flash "12" again a time or 2 to let you know it is done showing codes.

umm, well if you said your fuel pump turns on then the relay is fine. for spark i would just start at the cap, make sure there is power there.

 

the only relay you need to check is your fuel pump relay. the ignition system isnt on any relay that i know of. ill post up a pic inna few on which setting youll need to know for your voltmeter to do the tests.

 

yeah it flashed 12 three times then just kept on repeating code 12. if my ecm was fried would it still do this? anyway to check the ecm itself

 

ok that would be great. thanks for all the help. im determined to figure this out.

 

ive circled the 2 settings in red youll need. the v is for volts, the other setting is the ohms. well check the coil first. it will be on the intake, near the distributor, just follow the wire from the distributor to it. under the wire that runs to the distributor will be a plug with 4 prongs. unplug that. on the connector on the coil, put the red connector on the metal contact of the plug on the top left. then the black connector to a ground. set the volt meter to the ohm setting. you should get a really high number or something like OF or something to let you know its infinite.

 

this is done with the key off btw

 

i will do this tomorrow when i get back from work. came up from the garage for the night. thanks for the help man. ill reply when i do it tomorrow

 

thats just test one, if you get infinite, its fine. test 2 will be between the bottom 2 plugs, and you should get either 0 or a really small number. the last test will be between the other top plug and the plug that goes to the dist. that should be infinite as well. if you dont get these readings, your coil is fried.

 

im kinda hoping its fried and atleast i know that is my problem and i can just throw a new one in. ill know tomorrow i guess

 

if the ohm tests work out your coil is fine. turn the key on, and take the plug that you unplugged from the coil. switch your volt meter to the V setting. put the black connector in the port with the black wire going into it and the red one in the port with the pink wire. you should get anywhere from 12-14 volts. thats the battery power into the coil. if you get nothing then theres either a blown fusable link or broken/melted/shorted wire between the battery and the coil.