well the problem is i did a swap with heads cam n intake manifold. i took it to the track today n ended up runnig a 15.4. i would run 14.7's consistent before the swap. anybody kno y this could be happening. i had the valves adjusted already. n after i ran it at the track i started it to leave n it was making a weird rubbing/grinding noise from the engine idk where it is tho i couldnt find it.. anyone kno what would be causing me to go that slow after this good of swaps?

 

What heads cam and manifold did you use, and what was in it before?

 

afr 195cc heads, xfi 268 cam, and a HSR manifold... i had jus headers full ignition upgrade and a spectre filter before.

 

Have you tuned the ECM any after installing the new stuff?

 

no i havent but even tho i havent wouldnt it still run faster tho?

 

Not necessarily. The ECM needs to be tuned for the new stuff. Its still seeing the stock stuff and giving it fuel and spark accordingly. Im sure after the tune youll see the improvement you want.

 

dang well the timings at like 12 degrees BTDC. thats where i was told would help

 

You said you swapped to the HSR intake, but did you swap to the full HSR setup? Ive heard many times on here that the stock TPI runners cant handle much more than the stock motor. It cant flow enough air to keep up and it runs out of breath at the top end. That might also be the problem.

 

HSR intakes don't use TPI Runners... just a plenum and base

Anyways, I feel your pain dude..... Not sure what would make the grinding/rubbing noises. Did it always make these sounds or just at the track? The dowel on my new camshaft rubbed on the Timing chain cover ... man was it noisy. I had to take the cover off and tap the dowel into the cam a little.

You gotta learn how to program your own Prom Chips (I have an APU1 Autoprom from Moates.com and run TunerProRT which I'm still learning too use) You can drive and tune at the same time then burn what you like....
http://www.moates.net/index.php?cPath=64
or I've heard that PCMforless.com can set you up or close to it.....

This way you can adjust your timing for RPM and Load, Injector constants, Power Enrichments, MAF tables etc.......
Did you get bigger injectors? Bigger Throttlebody?
Maybe a higher stall convertor would make up for any torque you lost moving from the TPI???
I think that due to the increase in air moving through that engine you're gonna need alot more fuel....... right now you're probably super lean!

When I went to the dyno after my HSR, AFR 180, Elim & LPE 211/219 swap I was around 18:1 Air-Fuel Ratio at WOT. Still made 330Rwhp and 349ft/Lbs

 

Yea, I dont really know much about the TPIs.

 

O well no everythings still the same on the car like injectors n all that. The noise started right after the track. it pops a lil when the engines cold now idk wat could be causing that. I had one slighty bent push rod on the number 1 exhaust valve I replaced it n now it ran a 14.7 then the second run was 15.02 big loss for time so idk wats goin on man I'm over here gettin depressed lol

Idk wat to check anymore... lol

O n ya the throttle body still the same too same for the the torque converter. N all the other rods looked good cuz they spinned easy in the lifter n the rocker arms

 

how do the motor mounts look? are you using full length headers? could explain some rubbing.

 

motor mounts looked good checked them when we did the swap. im using shorties not full length.

 

ok well now im hearing that it could be my lifters cuz now im starting to hear a tick from the rocker arms... i didnt change my lifters when i put the bigger cam in there i jus checked them. the lifters looked perfect. but do i need to change the lifters, and could that be causing my car to run this slow after the swaps?

 

anybody think it would or not?

 

Listen man.... I'm not trying to be rude (so don't read into what I'm gonna say with that kinda slant) but it could be just about anything...
Lets try to give you some ideas

The Rubbing/Grinding noise shouldn't be your lifters.... I would expect them to make a tapping sound.

The XFI series of camshafts from Comp Cams have real aggressive ramp rates, so some people say that they hear alot of valvetrain noise..... Is it your lifters? Is it your rockers? Who knows.... are you runnning stock rocker arms? It may be too much lift on the stockers.....

How fast is the Grinding/Rubbing? Remember your Crank spins twice for one revolution of your camshaft. Maybe start there....

Is the poping when cold coming from your exhaust or the intake?

Now for your car running slower at the strip......
could be a few different things......
1) Probably very lean Air Fuel Ratio.... (big heads, big lift, stock injectors)
2) Timing not adjusted for the "fast burn" aluminum AFR heads.
3) More Duration less Torque.
4) More bent pushrods or collapsing lifters... not getting the desired lift.
5) Spinning at the start....?
6) Tranny slip?
7) Vacuum leak
8) Wrong Sparkplugs...

30 years ago you could do a Intake, Head, and Cam swap and get alot of power from it.... all you had to add was a bigger carb!
Now you gotta play with all the EFI stuff!!! So get a chip made or learn to burn your own............ Good Luck

There goes my last

 

You got new valve springs right? They can handle the lift of the cam you've got?

 

i got new valve springs with the head and afr says they can handle up to a 600 lift the cam is a 570 lift so im assuming the valve springs are handling the cam. the timing is at 11 BTDC. when you say wrong spark plugs wat do u mean by that? i got the accel spark plug for headers. the rubbing and grinding noise isnt there anymore it only did it that one time i went to the track so idk wat it was lol but its gone now. but now i do got the ticking or tapping noise from the engine under the valve covers. even without a tune tho shouldnt the car still run some faster times?? ive got stock length pushrods is that causing a problem afr said i could use stock lengths or .100 longer pushrod. n i got after market rocker arms there the jegs 1.6 rockers.

 

http://www.airflowresearch.com/sbc_faq.php

1) Spark Plugs:
(14mm x 3/4" gasket) no tapered seat style! For race applications Champion C59YC, Autolite 3910 or 51, A/C R41CXLS & NGK R41 CXLS are good starting points. For street applications use AC FR3LS or RC9YC Spark Plugs or equivalent. Spark Plug selection is of course dictated by many factors including RPM level, compression ratio and type of fuel. All the above Spark Plugs are at a starting heat range; blowers or nitrous applications usually require 1 to 2 heat ranges colder. Spark Plug gap should be determined by the ignition manufacturer.

I used the Champion RC9YC as a starting point and cross referenced it against Summits online catalogue and realized that the 1990-1993 LT5 ZR-1 Corvette used the same plugs....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CP...ke%7cCHEVROLET

Go from there..... I suspect that you're plugs might be too short internally. It's happened to a member here before...... He was chasing his tail trying to tune his car. Pulled it apart to find out that the spark plug wasn't even protruding into the combustion chamber...

 

Also, don't just look at ET, look at MPH as well. Higher MPH will tell you the engine's making more power.

Mods work as a package, meaning you can't leave out something (like re-programming the computer) and expect positive results.

Jake

 

ok so ur first suggestion would be to go and get the plugs first? my car is a daily driver if i used the NGK u said would that be to much or jus start of with the champions like u did GTA Sammy?

and the ET and MPH were almost the exact same as the old package. but i heard it should still give me some horses thats y im expecting to have the more power.

 

get the thing programed already, your chasing your tail,problem is right in front of you, other people have told you this, guess what there right ..........lol........no disrespect....

 

ok well i live in New Mexico so do u kno any good place around here that can do the tune or would u rather go to a place like pcmforless to get a custom chip burnt?
n GTA sammy how hard is that tuning system u r using n how much did it cost when u bought everything u needed?

 

Hey, I'm not telling you to buy anything......

I posted a link that brought you right to the AFR website, then Copy and pasted the exact info that tells you which sparkplugs to use........

I never used Champions....... just cross referenced the info supplied by AirFlow Research against Summits Racings' online catalogue to realize they are the same plugs used in the ZR-1 LT5 Corvette and then bought E3's.........

Anyways....... pull a plug to measure the length of the threads. Are they 3/4" long? If no, then you got the wrong plugs.... If yes, probably not the problem.....

I also gave you the link to Moates website, and told you about the APU1 Autoprom
http://www.moates.net/product_info.p...products_id=54
It's $329 + Laptop ............
The rest is reading the DYI Prom Forum......... there's tons of info there, but it helps to understand how a engine works. I'm still reading & working on it. I think most members willl say that they are never completely satisfied with their tune.....(perfectionists )

Seriously though, if your running stock 21 lbs injectors with a stock fuel pressure regulator, with those AFR 195's, a HSR and a XFI268 on a stock tune you're super lean dude. Members remedy that by getting 30 pounders (at least) and a adjustable fuel pressure regulator to begin with..... and then start tuning...

Below is the first link that Google gave me when I typed in Fuel Injector Calculator.... The math is at the bottom......
http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

Good luck!!!!!!

 

your deffinatly in need for a tune. idk how well the pcmforless or whatever its called, is. my dyno tuner tried to burn me a base map to be able to drive it there, but it wouldnt start with it. so it was towed. so hopefully with a detailed list of specs, they might be able to get it pretty close. but doing it on a dyno is best way for "fine" tuning it. so do some research on where one might be located near you.

 

.ok well i measured the spark plug today n the length of the threads is 3/8. if u go from the length of the threads to the tip of the spark plug its 5/8. ok so i think i have the wrong spark plug but when u said it should be 3/4 long wat were u goin by the threads or from the threads to the tip?

n as far as tuning goes ima look into that self tunin thing that gta sammy`s using see how simple/complicated it looks n if not ill buy a chip but if i do buy a chip it would still need to be dyno tuned right?

 

Cha Ching!!! 10 points for Sammy!!!!

I've already put my plugs in so I'm really not sure where the companies are measuring from..... But you're best bet is to go with one of the plugs that the AFR website has provided for you.....

 

lol thanx man ill see wat a difference that makes the next time the track opens up n we`ll see about t he tune im still looking into the self tuning wit the lap top so.