My kids motor is just about done, and I am hoping for some last minute advice before making room in the garage for the swap. Let me go over what we have done so far, and perhaps you folks can throw a few pointers my way.

1982 350, 6000 miles on a fully rebuilt block, .030 over..basically stock.
Crappy 626 heads, that I have fully ported and polished..1.940/1.6 valves swirl polished, and undercut. Heads have been milled as much as can be considered safe for these doorstops, and compression should be around 10:1.
New springs, titanium retainers, bronze guildes. I spent a few bucks more, and went with the chrome moly pushrods, and stainless steel 1.6 roller rockers. I decided to use a +10% oil pump which I hope will be good enough. weiand air strike intake with a holley 750 dp...the carb may be too big, but I have a 650 back up just in case. cloyes double row timing set.

Here is where I am sure some disagreement will come in..my choice of cam.
I went with a comp cam 275 deh, .462 in / .482ex .219/.229 dur @.050.
This may be a bit much for these heads, but Im hoping the porting work, and other valvetrain parts will help make up the difference. I will order the headers today, so if anyone has a preferred choice please let me know. Just two more things I have questions about. Timing advance, and fuel pressure regulator. I have seen the pressure regulator mentioned here before, but didnt write down the part number. I believe it was a mallory.

Timing choices... advance, stock, or retard? The keys are set for 2* either way from stock. This cam is gonna dog the motor down low, so im thinking I should advance it the 2*. I can also re-key the sprocket if anyone knows of a perfect advance or retard scenario. The car is a 91 rs drop top. Its been fun spending my kids money, and doing this thing together. I cant wait to hear him swear up a storm with all the busted knuckles hes gonna have while crawling around under this car.

 

Between the valve sizes and lift/duration it's going to move a lot of air but a 350 might just be able to digest it, even with tight chambers. If it's a manual trans the RPMs can be managed more easily, but with an auto you might want to consider a higher stall converter and a lockup.

The smaller carb will likely end up on top once you're all done unless this is a weekend warrior only. The cam is likely going to produce a very weak vacuum signal to the carb and tuning is going to be a treat. This is one place where the Holley will be a better fit than a Rochester since a Holley can be tweaked to to deal with low vacuum a bit better (I hope you have lots of jets, bleeders, and metering blocks available).

Advancing the valve timing may help a bit, but you'll have to move it more than the typical 4º to make enough difference.

 

Thanks for the reply vader. I will be putting in a 2500 converter in once I get a new trans. The rear end will also be reworked by august with some luck. My focus is to get it installed, and running. I know I wont be able to get it fine tuned just yet, but driveable would be a good start.