I am tired of my in-tank pump, and all the problems that go with it. I decided that when I drop the tank again (I have to, fuel gauge sender is broke) I am going to go with a totally new fuel system.

I am going to modify the efi pickup and remove the in-tank pump, and run a line to where the base of the pump would be. From there, the feed line would run just outside of the tank (Exact location TBD) through a fuel filter, than an external electric fuel pump, down the length of the car, and depending on whether or not I need a pressure regulator, it will run to the regulator, or straight to the carburetor. If not using my regulator, I will splice the feed line and return line together after the fuel pump, and run a return that way.

Here is the pump I was thinking about:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-12S/

Here is the filter:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1501/

And then something like this right before the carburetor:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPE-2369/

Will it be strong enough to supply my motor pushing ~430HP, through a 750cfm carburetor?

Thanks

 

I got bored so I drew a little schematic in paint of what I am talking about.

 

should work, my friends 550 hp blown 350 is running electric pump with carb, just remember a fuel pressure regulator

 

Save ya some money & time .... ALL those things available at any local auto parts store - saves shipping and you can get it tomorrow! AutoZone/Advance/Oreilly's carries that same pump and same filters except maybe the larger filter - but they have similar.

For the same money, NAPA and CARQUEST also carry pumps and filters of better quality than Mr. Gasket and Spectre.

 

The canister filter you posted, the one with the red bottom, is the same one I have. So far no problem. You will need some sort of screen style filter before the pump. If you keep the sock on the stock pickup, then that will work. The little chrome filter before the carb is not needed. I however would put the canister filter after the pump. They can push a lot better than they can pull so the least restriction on the pull side, the better.

That little pump is no good. My brother tried it on his stock 350 and it gave him nothing but problems. I would use a decent holley or even a summit brand pump. I'm using a summit pump and have had no problems with it. Its loud, but it works. Mine can push up to 18 psi so a return style regulator is a must.

 

I just posted links to summit to show the parts I was talking about. I buy everything that I can locally because I am so impatient lol.

My reasoning for the canister filter before the pump was to keep debris out of the pump itself to prevent pump failure. I really didnt want to have a sock in the tank because thats one more reason that I would have to drop the tank again.

How about this pump?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3136-1/

What are your thoughts on the return line like that? Or would you just run it the way I already have it, which is through a mallory 4309, then returned that way?

Thanks guys.

 

The pump you listed now is the one my brother wound up going with and so far the truck runs much better and has had no problems with it. It only reaches a max of 7 psi so you may not even need a return line or a regulator. We put a tee fitting in my brothers feed line right before the carb to check his fuel pressure and it is right at 6.5 psi with no regulator on. The mallory regulator you have now is also the same one I have. If you wind up going with a bigger pump, that regulator will be good. But with the pump listed above, you wont need a return line at all. Also the return line only gets used with a regulator. Your first post kinda makes it sound like you were going to hook up a return line with no regulator.

 

I was, lol.

So let me see if I got what your saying:

Run a sock in the tank, then it hits the summit fuel pump, through the canister filter, under the car and straight to the carburetor?

Am I going to be safe not running a return?

 

The way you just listed is the correct way if running that summit pump. It will only push 7 psi so there is really no need for a regulator. If you decide to run a regulator, then the one you have now will be good.

If you dont want to run the sock (and I dont blame you) then you can use one of these. Its the same thing I'm using. It just uses a screen to catch bigger things. You can take the two halves apart and clean the screen so you dont have to buy filters for it. I'm glad I have one as I once found a wasp sitting in it. The link to the one below is for -6 AN but they make them bigger.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-230101/

 

So I should run one of those outside of the tank before the fuel pump?

I would get one with 3/8" nipples so I can just run hoses.

 

Yeah the filter I posted would get mounted outside the tank before the pump. Its free flowing enough that, unless its clogged, it wont be a restriction to the suction side of the pump.

 

Okay, cool. Its just that I know nothing about that Anodized, AN aluminum fitting stuff, lol. It looks nice, thats about all I know.

 

AN lines are nice. All my hoses on the car use AN lines. The only draw back is the price.

If you get a screen style pre filter that has AN ends and you want to run 3/8" hose, you can use these to joing the two.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220701/?rtype=10

 

Oh, cool. Thats a neat adapter, but I will just buy one with 3/8" ends already on it, though. Atleast now I know how I am going to run my fuel system.

 

The filter BEFORE the pump is a definite - otherwise the warranty on the pump is void. The pump instructions will dictate what filter (in microns) is required to comply with the warranty.

 

I agree but you want a screen type before the pump and a regular one after. You also want to mount the pump as close to the tank as possible. This is in the instructions to the summit pump he listed.

On page 2 it says:

 

Will this pre-filter work, the one you posted filters as small as 40 microns, whereas this one filters as small as 35 microns? Will the smaller screen create too much of a problem for the pump?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PFS-10210/

 

(I am keeping everything 3/8" NPT)

 

That one looks fine.

 

Allright, sweet, I am making my parts list now, so all I have to do is place one order.

One more Q-
How much fuel line do I need to run along the bottom of the car to the carb?

 

Not sure on how much line. I know I measured my subframe connectors which go down the length of the car as well and it was about 6 feet or so I think. When I did my fuel line I bought a 25 foot roll of aluminum line from summit and had more than enough to do my feed and return lines.

 

Its either $25 for 10ft of braided 3/8" line, or $60 for 25ft of braided 3/8 line. I really dont think I need 25ft if I am only running one feed with no return line.

Could I get away with 10ft?

 

10 feet would probably get you from the tank to the back of the front wheel well.

Where did you find -6 braided line for so cheap from? Every time I've bought it its a little over $6 a foot.

 

Its 3/8. Just covered in braided metal, rubber inside.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPE-29410/

 

Damn, I really dont want to spend $60 on 25ft of fuel line if I only need 15ft, but they have it listed with no length between. I am going to see if they do it by the foot, uncut.

Nope, dont think they do that, they lave it listed at 2, 3, 4, 6, 10, and 25 foot lengths.

 

That is regular stainless braided line. It all has rubber hose in the middle. The stainless braiding just helps make sure the hose doesnt flex as much and makes it more abraison resistant. Plus it looks better And -6 is 3/8". Going up by 2 on the AN sizes is the same as going up 1/8". -8 is 1/2" and -10 is 5/8" and so on.

 

Maybe buy a 4 foot and 10 foot section. Use the 4 foot coming out of the tank and to the pre filter and then to the pump. Then use the 10 foot for out of the pump to the main filter then to the motor.

If you want I can take better measurements of my car tomorrow and post pics with the tape measure up against the car so you can see how far apart certain things are from each other. The cars already on the lift so getting under it is no big deal.

 

You don't have to do all that, but I won't be mad if you did, haha.

Should I run the canister filter closer th the pump, or closer to the carburetor? I wanted to have the 2 filters, and pump at the rear of the car right outside of the fuel tank in a row, mainly for easy-access for servicing and such.

 

As far as I know it doesnt matter where the main filter is mounted as long as its between the pump and the motor. Probably just where ever is easist. The pre filter (screen filter) just needs to be before the pump. The biggest thing is to try to get the inlet fitting of the pump below the bottom of the tank. This will help with the siphon effect to aid the pump with pulling fuel out the top of the tank.

I'll take pics tomorrow. Its no big deal. Hell if anything I'm sure one day I'll look at them to figure something out.

 

Haha, allright.

 

Alright, took 20 pictures or so. Rather than posting them all here, I made a page for them on my cardomain site so I'll post the link to that. I tried to explain what each picture was of. I also didnt know exactly how you plan on running the line so I took pics of both sides of the car and the engine compartment and going across the frame rails incase you need to cross the fuel line from one side of the car to the other. I leave work between 4 and 5 today so let me know if you need anything else measured.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3840750/5

 

Thanks so much for those pics, they help out tremendously!

I am thinking of running it all like this:
Off of the sender towards the passenger side, through the pre-filter, then the pump, than the canister filter (All in a line) then across the passenger side subframe up to the engine bay, and into the carburetor.

I plan on getting a dual feed line on the carb and turning it backwards, so its cleaner and uses about a foot less hose. It seems that 14 foot of braided will do fine for me, as long as the whole underneath of the car gets braided, thats what I care about. So if rocks, broken glass, and other road debris wont effect the line it it gets hit.

 

Sounds like a good plan. Do you mean have the fuel line enter the engine compartment then go to the motor in the same way mine does just minus the regulator? If so, that works perfect. It also keeps the fuel line out the trans tunnel which I like. Being that the exhaust goes through there and heat rises, I can see the tunnel only acting as an oven on the fuel line.

 

Yes sir, exactly!

 

why not just buy a mechanical pump? They're so much easier to work with and I'd imagine a lot more reliable than some Mr. Gasket electric.

 

You actually make a good point.

Do I need to run a return if I use a mech. pump?

 

No return needed. I took out my intank pump and replaced it with a length of rubber hose and then just used a Holley 110gph mechanical (pn is like 12-327-11 if memory serves me right). No regulator, no return, and I even use the stock filter and fuel lines ...my car has run low 11's at 121mph using this simple setup with no fuel delivery issues whatsoever.


That Mr.Gasket pump only free flows 35gph... it wouldn't work very well with any decent motor and it'd be more of a pain to rig up than a mechanical.

 

Yeah, I am goint to be pulling my motor when I gather all of the parts to re-rebuild it. (Only like 300 miles on it now)

It is going to have atleast 430HP when it goes back in, and I want a pump that can keep up.

I can't believe I didnt think about replacing it with a damn mech pump! I had a mech pump on my old 84 T/A, and never had an issue.

What do you think about this pump? Seems like it only has 2 ports, an in, and an out, perfect.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-250000-1/

This pump is said to run @ 8psi, when I hear that most cars like 5-6psi. Should I run a regulator? I will buy this carburetor at the time of the rebuild as well:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-M08750MS/

Thanks.