THE beast drives fine for about 15 mins then starts to get hot
also when it start to get hot it sounds choppy in 1st-2nd gear FEELS like shortage of fuel injection??
i have to pull over to make the car cool down IT WILL CONTINUE TO GET HOT if not
(every 2 days)

 

Does it get hot in town or on the highway...or both? Little more info on the car would be great.

does the fan work? (Should come on when Temp reaches 220* or so and second fan when AC is turned on).

Is the Air Dam intact?

Is your timing correct?

Have you tried replacing the Thermostat? sometimes they stick closed instead of open. (normally they fail open so it never really warms up)

Have you replaced your hoses? Sometimes the hoses can go bad without leaking and when the fluid gets flowing, the hose squeezes itsef shut from the pressure restricting flow.

Those are some of the things you can check on.

 

it get's hot driving around in town...the fan works.....not sure what air dam is///looks like.....not sure how to check/know what timing is on it........there is no thermostat in the car..........not sure about the hoses............................................................... its my dads car so i can only use it when hes awake il post up all that info in about 2 hours
when the tow truck picc my v6 up so my mechanic can replace the lower intake manifold

 

i would deffinetly put a thermostat in. air dam is that piece of plastic that hangs down just below your bumper. if its missing you will overheat

 

I would suspect a restricted radiator. Especially since someone removed the thermostat. It probably has a history of overheating.

 

i will go and check for the air dam
how do i know its a faulty radiator

 

there is no air dam
will be installing one in about an hourwill this air dam take care of overheating problems?

 

also its choking itself in 1st,---2nd then acts normal

 

Is it choking when it gets hot? You may have a faulty coolant temp sensor. Its located next to the thermostat housing at the front of the intake manifold. The wires to it are one yellow, one black. The ECM uses this sensor to monitor coolant temp for fuel mixture adjustments and cooling fan control. You can test it for resistance. It should read about 4,450ohms at 60 degrees and 177 ohms at 212 degrees.

You can test your radiator with an infared thermometer. Check temperatures across the core and look for areas that are significantly cooler than others. You can also monitor the temp of the upper hose and radiator together with or without a thermometer. The upper hose should rise in temp as the thermostat opens. You should quicly feel this heat come off the radiator and shortly after, the primary fan should come on. The air off the radiator at this point should be very hot.

Does your car have one fan or two? The dual fans are the heavy duty fan system. The primary fan should come on at 220, the other will come on with the AC or at 240. If the primary fan runs even though the air off the radiator seems cool, you probably have a restricted radiator and or a bad coolant temp sensor.

 

ya choking itself when it gets hot
how would i test the coolant temp sensor anything i could by at KRAGEN
preety sure it has 1 fan wouold there be two fans right by the radiator in the norm. spot?
also dont wanna put airdam on my dads car cause i dont wanna mess it up
it should be nothing more than unbolt and bolt
thats all it looks like

 

Air dam is a tactory part and should be replaced if missing. It will not help overheating in town. It only directs air through radiator at higher speeds, like on the freeway. Its main purpose is to reduce fan on time to improve efficiency.

I told you above how to test the CTS. Use an ohmmeter. Even a cheap one from Kragens will work.

 

NM, I posted before reading the other responses.

 

just driving it recently
since its my dads car i dont drive it that often it chokes it self even when its not hot
wondering if this could mean anything else

 

Have you checked the coolant temp sensor and/or CTS wiring?