I don' know if this should go here, or on the ECM page?

First off, I have switches for ignition, fuel pump, and electric fan.
When I tried to start the car after swapping, by turning the key, nothing happened which is why I added a start button. Also, no fuel pump activation when key was "on" which is also why I added fuel pump switch.

When I turn the key to "on" position the BATT gauge on the cluster moves, but the fuel, temp and oil pressure gauges do not. After wiring the distributor I noticed the tach doesn't work either(White wire from old dist. right?). I know it's wired correctly because the engine runs. I have not driven it on the street yet, so I'm assuming the speedometer doesn't work either. It has electronic VSS so that might be a problem too. I'm 99.99% sure I have reconnected all the sensors to their proper locations, but sense I am having this problem, I might not have.

I thought the ECM might be the problem so I've checked it for all its powers and grounds with both key on and off. It has them where it needs them. I have no idea where to go/check next. I don't have to run mechanical gauges for everything do I?

Does the VATS system have anything to do with the car not starting with the key, and/or making the cluster not work? Before the swap I had the car re-keyed and was driving it so I know that the resistance in the 'thing' is the same as the key.

I hope what I'm describing makes sense and isn't too confusing! Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

 

The ECM doesn't have anything to do with the operation of the gauges. Check that you haven't hacked any wiring out.

 

Guage cluster should work fine without ECM - it has nothing to do with the guages.

Fuel pump should have run off the oil pressure sending unit even without ECM and fuel pump relay connected. It would have taken a few seconds of starting before the OPSU recognized oil pressure and turned the pump on, but it should have run. If you have no oil pressure showing, might be the OPSU. It was originally located above the oil filter on your 305.

Water temp sensor was originally located in driver head between #1 and #3 plugs - a single wire standard spade connector.

Might just have wires not connected correctly or something. Do you still have the OPSU somewhere?

 

I put the OPSU on the new block, right above the oil filter, and snapped in the connector. As for the temp sensor, I thought that the sensor that attaches to the intake right after/before the thermostat was the temp. I think I have a random plug in the hole thats between #1 and #3 :/

In the image is the plug that i put in there. The two connectors that are hanging right there are the only ones that reach that point. The one with the green on it doesn't fit over the plug 'stem', given thats the correct plug. I transfered everything over from the old block to the new one, so that "should" be the right plug.

Thanks for the quick responses!

 

Yes, that's the temperature sensor. Without the ECM you don't need it. The gauge is driven by the temperature sender which was between the #1 and #3 cylinders.

Where did you get it from?

With all the other problems, it sounds like you've got some butchered wiring.

 

I believe the plug is from the other side of the block, right by #6. It's the fan temp switch? I have, in that hole, an after market fan temp switch plug that goes to a controller. Do either of those connectors belong to the temp sender? Any idea on the Tach problem? Or oil pressure? Are these things are wired in series, so if one thing doesn't work nothing does?

Thank You!

 

All the gauges ( oil / temp ) are single wires from gauge going to ground at the sender unit.
Disconnect the wire from a sender and ground it.If gauge doesn't move then you have problems elsewhere.
As the fuel gauge is also out I would suspect gauges fuse or a power/ wiring to dash problem as fuel sender at other end of car; not in engine bay

Tacho signal not required to run engine

 

Ok, it sounds to me like your problem with all of your gauges in your dash are connected. Very unlikely that they would have all gone out at once. Also, your ignition switch problem is connected as well. There are a few electrical components from your TBI setup that are connected into your ignition switch, which in turn supplies power to your dash panel. A wiring diagram shouldn't be too hard to find, and just trace down and bypass any components that are in your way. I can't remember what all is there in the way, but if I remember correctly, your old coil wiring and throttle body injector wiring is part of it.

 

What colour is the wire of the oil pressure switch?

 

Tach comes from the distributor. Oil comes from the oil pressure sending unit above the filter. Water Temp comes from the sender on the cylinder heads. Voltage from the alt, and fuel level from the tank.... Not a single one of them is ECM dependent. So that should ease your mind a little. I'd suggest getting a new oil pressure sending unit - only $17. They go bad often, and it's a small price to pay to know you're getting healthy oil pressure. But check your wiring coming from it too.