I have a lot of slop in my steering and I wanted to inspect my steering gearbox. Are there any good write-ups on what should or should not be worn to cause this, and are there any rebuild kits or replacement parts?

 

Do a google search on steering box adjustment. If yours simply has alot of miles on it and is worn out, Id find a JY car with a little less wear/tear

 

I had read up on it and apparently the adjustment is very sensitive and it's usually best to replace the parts. So I should just find a better shape steering gearbox and swap them out?

 

Follow the instructions, if it doesnt help replace

 

I got a reman at NAPA and it made a big difference.

It would be a huge PITA to get a JY one and find out its not much better IMHO.

 

How much was the NAPA one? I'm still learning in college, I've only been here a few months. I'm a total newbie. Hell, I don't even know whats wrong or right with my car. Mainly electronics stuff...

 

about $150. there is an AAA discount at NAPA something like 10%. there are two different types depending on the # of turns lock to lock.
there are after market units but very expensive $300+, or you can have yours rebuilt but thats probably $200+

before you invest...
check for any play in the other steering components, such as tie rods etc
check condition of the 'rag joint' - right above the steering box

 

I'd also check the steering components as they may well contribute to the slop if they've never been replaced.

JamesC

Removing slop in the GM steering box
Part One
contributed by J. Matthew Daugherty


Does your car wander across truck grooves in the road, but didn't used to? Does the steering wheel have a lot of travel before your car begins turning? Generally feel numb on center?

Having a car with over 100K on it assures you that you'll have some chassis parts to replace and some steering "slop" to take care of. Idler arm, drag link, tie rods, ball joints, steering box, shocks, springs, bushings all could use replacing when they're high mileage.

The stock steering box on your g-body has an adjustment that is free, takes very little time to do and requires minimal tools. This adjustment removes slop in the preload of the gears in the steering box.


Tools

3/16" allen wrench
5/8" box end wrench
lubricating oil

Procedure

use oil to lubricate threads of locknut and adjustment plug (right on top, can't miss it)
raise the front end of the car so both front wheels are off the ground
put the box end wrench on the locknut
use allen wrench to hold the adjustment plug at the top of the box
holding the allen wrench stationary, loosen the locknut with the box end wrench several turns
turn the adjustment plug clockwise until snug to remove slack, then back it out 90 degrees.
holding the allen wrench stationary, tighten the locknut, remove wrenches
start car, run steering wheel through full rotation, checking for binding
if binding, repeat steps 3-8, backing out adjustment plug slightly more
lower car from jack (stands) drive car, note improvement!
I was AMAZED at how much slop this took out of the front end of my 131K '86 Monte Carlo SS (factory quick ratio box). I seriously doubt it had ever been done by prior owners.

 

For $150 it sounds like a good idea to me. Plus you can upgrade to the Iroc quick steer box.

 

I have tried to rebuild one gearbox (but not on an Fbody). It is about like exhaust work - take it somewhere to have the pipes welded. I would get a rebuilt gearbox and not try it myself. You may have enough trouble getting it off. Good suggestion to lube the line fittings - they twist and then you vomit. You will have a hard time getting the pitman arm off. It is very tight and also a non-wearing item. The bolts to the frame will be very tight as well. Last but not least, you get the joy of doing this on your back.

When you get the new one on, follow the advice given above about raising the wheels off the ground and rotating the steering through several full revolutions (maybe as much as 10-15). This is the bleeding/air purging procedure and it won't work without the wheels up. Try the adjustment first - you may save yourself a lot of time, effort, and money.

 

When I had my car on the rotary lift I wiggled the tie rods, they didn't move much besides twisting slightly on their bushings. I assume this is normal...they didn't look bent, either. The car can stay straight, I just need to turn the steering wheel a few inches before it grabs.

I'm still learning about what problems this car has

 

Reman boxes often have the on-center slop that you're trying to get around, hence the suggestion to find a lower miles used box. The gears that get worn arent exactly considered wear items either, sleeves, bushing, bearings, seals and races are, and are replaced with the reman process

Also, good luck getting the pitman arm off. My 3/4" impact didnt budge it using the puller

 

Can that area be torched or are there any gaskets near/under the pitman arm?

 

Lower seal is there

 

Ouch on all this... Lol.