now i know there are already threads about this but mine is doing some really weird things.

First off i have a 92 rs, with a 305 v8. Recently my service engine soon light has been coming on, so i hooked up a code reader an got 2 codes. One was for my egr valve an the other was a security code. Well i tried to start the car after i unhooked the code reader and the security light was on and it wouldnt start. We tried to clear it but it said it didnt support the clearing so it couldnt. So i waited about 20 minutes and it fired over just fine. Now every once in awhile it does it again and im forced to wait. Now here is the real kicker, when the security light comes on an it wont start the service engine light is always on. If i go to start it and the service engine light blinks once then it will start, but if it holds solid it wont start. A finally every once in awhile from some where either in the steering column or around it there is a very high pitched sqeal for a few seconds then it cuts off.

Now before the code reader i never had a problem with it starting ever...

Any ideas guys?

 

VATS

 

Sounds like a VATS related problem, but apparently not complete failure. Could be the ignition key switch reader is not great, or the wiring is getting shaky. Could possibly be that you just need to clean up the contacts on both sides of your key so that they get read better. Squeal could be the contact that sounds a little squeal when you leave the key in and open the door? Shouldn't go off with the door shut unless something in the column is loose though. Try cleaning up the key first, Do a search on the electronics board for VATS if you need more info, or there is a good article in the technical articles section that may help

 

no the squeal comes when i turn the key from off to acc. An ive cleaned the key several times and some times it helps some times it doesnt.

 

What happens, is that inside the key cylinder there are tiny contacts that are spring loaded with very tiny springs. Over time, these wear out - either the contact wears down, or the springs get dislodged or broken. Sometimes, with good vision, just the right light, and a severe crook of the neck, you can watch as key is inserted slowly and see the contacts being spread apart by the key and making contact with the pellet (or not as the case sounds).

2 fixes - 1) replace the key cylinder making sure to get a VATS key cylinder that has the contacts inside, or 2) bypass the VATS with the right resistor(s).

I happened to be able to see this demise happen in my 1997 Z28 - I bypassed it since it was winter, freezing cold, and I was lazy at the moment. It would start acting up every couple weeks, then every couple days, then just about every time I tried to start it. Wiggling the key gently in the cylinder as I was inserting and cranking would usually get it started - but I knew the end was very near and that weekend I bypassed it - no problems since 2+ years later.