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Frustrated need some insite.

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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 03:46 AM
  #1  
dlsfbodyfan's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Frustrated need some insite.

The orig problem Ive actually got it fixed but now its doing something else so here is the whole story. Its kinda embarresing to be honest. The person who owned the car before me was to lazy to replace the fuse link for the radiator fan. So i wired it as a toggle switch cause he cut it and wired it into the fuse panel. I started my car bout a month ago and by mistake locked the door when i went to scrap the ice off my front windshield. So in short she ran for about two hours with no way to cool down. melted the plastic in the radiator sucked into the cooling system,big mess. Anyway Ive actually got her back up and running and drove it for a few hours last week. But now a new problem has come up and im just to frustrated to see what i feel maybe the obvious. So to better help here is what was done.

Replaced radiator flushed the system prior to hook up replaced the hose's oil change and lube minus one qt oil and replaced with 1qt trans fluid <incase i had alot of shavings> Then between two starts after all this just before I dropped the radiator in the smog pump locks. So to save myself a whole new headace I bypassed smog and AC pulleys mesaured my system and ran as follows Alt down to PS over and under water pump around crank and up to tensior. She started cleaned tools up put gas in it drove her for round a hour and a half. Got back home checked fluids didnt notice any mixing of anti-freeze and oil topped of radiator and called it a day. She sat for another day and a half went out to start it to go to work battery is dead! came home put it on a charger 2A slow charge roughly 8 hours later it said it was fully charged. Went to bed got up went to leave for work, turned over for a sec died and battery just kept dropping as i tried to start it . So gave up and walked to work. the charging and no start was tonight. She was fixed and driving Sunday or Monday evening. If you need any information other than the given just ask not much i dont know about her. Thank you again very much.

P.S. 1990 Formula Firebird 220+ Orig miles on a small block 305 TBI if that helps. Also as I thought about it. Battery gauge hit 13 for first 20 mins of driving, as far as i know normal for a new belt. Then dropped as i drove more. But also noticed with radio heat and fan running battery dropped kinda low. Belt is still pretty tight could be tighter. But wasnt thrown. Keep in mind she sat in the cold for near a month with only being started twice few hours after the over heat and again the day i finished all the work. Battery life wasn''t a issue till after I drove it and parked it.
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 09:38 AM
  #2  
NINÅ's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 10
From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
T • M • I

Well we believe you’re asking about a charging problem.

Using an external voltmeter across the battery with the engine at least 1200 RPM, what does the meter read?

Then shut off the engine, what does the meter read?

If the voltage did not drop when you shut off the engine, keep the engine OFF and perform the measurements below.

The heavier
red wire goes to the positive stud, and should have power at all times.

The thinner
red wire goes to terminal S (the sensing circuit) and should have power at all times.

The
brown wire goes to terminal F (the turn-on input) and should have power when the key is in the RUN position.



Happy Racing!



Maybe I Should Have The Guys Put A Door In The Bottom For Any Roll-Overs In 2011

.

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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 05:33 PM
  #3  
HF_monster's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: colorado
Car: 86' z28 (died 5/1/11) 76 k10 pickup
Engine: 350
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 open
Re: Frustrated need some insite.

your battery may have froze take it to a autoparts store and have it checked along with what NINA said.
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 05:55 PM
  #4  
camaronewbie's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 19
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: Frustrated need some insite.

You have to stop where you are at!!!

This is a serpentine system, which means it has a reverse rotation water pump. There's no way you can delete the smog pump pulley AND the A/C pulley at the same time - you MUST use a pulley delete for one or the other. There is no possible way to reroute the serpentine belt and maintain the correct flow of the water pump. So your going to overheat big time, as well as probably destroying the water pump. Until you get that resolved, you need to NOT RUN THE MOTOR.

Also, before you do anything else - learn you lesson, and geta spare door key made for your wallet or a key safe under the car, and please make sure you have a spare VATS key somewhere in the world - it's amazing how many people don't make spares
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 10:05 AM
  #5  
dlsfbodyfan's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Re: Frustrated need some insite.

Thank you all, it was indeed the Alt had a bad diode. Would not put out more than 10 volts. As for the serp belt, I haven't had a issue with it yet and its actually running normal temps and below till i sit at a light for more than five mins. But ill double check. Thank you all again.
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