Anyone know what the correct timing should be for a 327?

 

"327" doesn't matter in the slightest.

It should be around 36° BTDC with vac advance disabled and engine RPM about about 3000; retarding to probably anywhere between about 10 - 18° BTDC (this is the "static" timing, i.e. what you change by twiddling the dist body) depending on cam and compression, starting at around 2800 RPM and reaching full retard (all the way back down to "static") at around 1200. It should have 12 - 15° of vac adv on top of that, with the exact operating points again depending on the cam and various other individual features of your specific engine.

Tell us EXACTLY what you REALLY have, ACCURATELY measured (REAL volumes, not "catalog" #s for compression, for example; and a cam part #, not "mild" or "480 lift" or the like) and maybe we can specify an appropriate curve for your particular engine.

 

For simple general purpose of getting the car to run decently, you set the timing where the engine seems to like it best at idle, adjusting your carb to compensate your idle back up/down for the changes in timing. This is usually anywhere from 8 to 18 BTDC at idle for a non-cc carbed car.

Then drive the car, and WOT runs - listen for spark knock - if you hear even the slightest, then timing needs to be brought down 2 degrees and retest. If you get spark knock at 14 BTDC, but not at 12 BTDC, then you probably need to come down to 11 BTDC to be safe, as the human ear cannot detect all spark knock.

Take the timing light with you, as well as screwdriver for adjusting idle. Leave the dist hold-down bolt loose enough to turn dist, but tight enough to keep it from moving on it's own.

You can get more technical with a timing tape - Mr. Gasket sells them, can order from any auto parts store (got mine at Oreilly). It's simply a tape with marks all around, you stick it on harmonic balancer so you can see these marks above the 12 degree limit of most timing tabs. There are several sizes, you need to know the diameter of your balancer to order.

Then you can see total timing at 3000rpms - that's where you want to get close to 36 BTDC as possible, without advancing the timing to where you get the spark knock. To get to 36, I had to set my initial at 17 - but I get spark knock, so I had to come back down to about 13 initial timing. To get higher, alot of times you need different weights/springs in the distributor. The mechanical advance works off centrifugal force, and different weights and springs allow for more or less mechanical advance since you are changing the force needed (by heavier weights or lighter springs) to move the mechanical parts with the centrifugal forces available.

In order to see something to relate to past the 12 degrees on most timing tabs, you can rotate the balancer (engine) so that your timing mark is at say zero, then paint a stripe on the balancer at 6 BTDC. Then, when you are timing - look at the painted stripe instead of the groove in the balancer - you know this is 6 degrees MORE than what ever the timing tab says - so if the painted mark is at 10, then you know it's really 16.

Hope that makes sense.