Checked TPS voltage, 5.0 from ECM, .058 at idle, and voltage rises steadily to 4.37 at wide open throttle, yet I have a code 22. Book says .054 at idle, would this be enough to throw a light? Thanks

 

TPS is probably fine.

If memory serves, the "spec" is something like .55V ± .08V or some such; meaning anything from about .47 to .63 should keep it happy.

The computer isn't smart enough to troubleshoot your car for you. It can't always look out through its 7 wires or whatever it is, that go to sensors, and know with certainty, some one of them is bad. Sometimes, yes; always, far from it. All it can do, is look at the outside world through its very limited vison, and guess what's going on.

Imagine the following scenario: on its various inputs, the motor sees low RPM, low vacuum, and low TPS voltage. Obviously these 3 things CANNOT POSSIBLY exist at the same time: that would mean the engine is going slow, the throttle is closed, but it's under a high load. Clearly something is wrong. But what? The computer has no way of "knowing" that. All it can do, is respond however it's programmed to respond; which in such a case, is for whoever wrote the program, to have guessed what the most likely thing that could go wrong and create conditions that the ECM would see like this, and put the logic in the PROM, that when that happens, set such-and-such a code.

Sounds to me like your TPS is doing just fine, but something else, that should change in some relation to the actual throttle position, is not; and the ECM, in total confusion, reoprts TPS error. Even though the real fault may well lie elsewhere.

Investigate things that should change when the throttle position changes; the MAF, most likely. The exact circumstances when it sets the code would be a clue: does it become unhappy at idle, or at cruise, or at WOT, or only after it warms up, etc.

 

Thanks for your help, I just got this car , and I'm probably trying to do too much at once. These codes were in the car when I first probed the computer. I agree, that the TPS is probably ok. Another code that came up is for the MAF, and that coincides with your theory. I also found vacuum lines off and cracked from the EGR, which hopefully will account for that code. Lastly, I got a coolant sensor code. I installed a new sensor, and we will see. I know that the computer self diagnostic is vague, and appreciate your input, I think with these repairs done, I will clear the codes, start the engine, and see what I have. Again, thanks for your help.