I have in my possession a 4 bolt main 350 block and I'm wanting to do a built rebuild but keeping the car streetable. So I'm wanting opinions and personal experiance on what I'm thinking for a build so far in my 92 RS.

4 bold main 350sb
GM Performance Vortec Heads
Edelbrock Performance RPM Vortec Manifold
Edelbrock Performance RPM Cam and Lifters
Holley 600 cfm carb
255 Walbro Fuel Pump
Hedman long tube headers

I figured this is a good start to a mild street/strip motor for my RS. Ideas? Opinions? Input of any kind would be great, thanks!

 

Won't blow your pants off, but def will be fun to drive.

Really all depends what your wallet allows you to do and what you really wanna do with the car.

 

Well, this is def. a budget build in my eyes. I can find all of these parts used for cheap, or new from Summit for a reasonable price. I'll have to buy one thing at a time because the budget is low at this time. And that's what I'm looking for is a fun and fast car. Not looking to blow doors off at all...

What I really want with this car is to just drive it. I want to go cruising on a Friday night, and park at the local Steak and Shake or Andy's Frozen custard with all my other car friends. I want to drive it to the local drag strip and have fun racing my friends and other people, win or lose. I want to clean this car up, replace everything needing to be replaced and maybe show it off at a couple of local car shows. That is what I want with this car.

I want people to look at this car and say, "Wow, that is a clean fun car, can I go for a ride in it?" lol I don't think that is to much to ask for.

 

Well that should be a low-mid 13 second build. Plenty for a fun, low budget street car.

 

Makes me happy to hear the responses I'm getting. I have been doing a lot of reading and research to get to this point. I'm hoping to have this motor built and ready to go in by this time next year.

 

I don't remember what lift vortec heads are good for but you can get ls6? springs and retainers for like $200 and run up to .580". A more aggressive cam along the lines of a LT4 hotcam should get you to high 12's or low low 13's. You're already looking at an aftermarket converter so you can bump the cam up a bit.

 

Edelbrocks cams aren't the best design, but they'll work. If you haven't purchased it yet I suggest you give Crower or Lunati a call and get a shelf cam from them, or a custom grind to your application.

Oh, and get a Holley double pumper just for good measure. I love the Vacuum secondaries, but double pumpers will be more responsive without having to install those trick kits and all that.

Those vortec heads are a great start. I've heard of some people making serious power with them when modified by the right person.

 

Thanks for the heads up, I'll look into it for sure!

 

I'm wanting to keep the car an automatic, for some strange reason when I think of manual cars I think Import Tuner. When I think of hot rod muscle cars I think of automatic, just how I was raised I guess lol. But regardless for personal reasons I do wish to keep the car an auto. Which brings me to my next question, will the 700R-4 hold up to the extra power this 350 will be puting out by the time I'm done building it? If not what auto trans should I use? Or can the 700R-4 be built to withstand the extra power?

 

700R's can be built to handle a decent amount of power. I would use it. Just remember: the #1 killer in transmissions is heat. If anything I highly recommend you get the biggest trans cooler you can fit. I spent $150 on mine, and I'm very happy with it. Get a torque converter to match your cam RPM range and you'll have a beast of a setup.

 

That is really close to the combo I am currently running. Honestly if I had waited I would have gone LS1. However I didn't but engine is strong even though it has yet to be tuned beyond 'point A-B driving'.

From the description you gave, it will definately do that and if it's anything like mine you'll be more than happy considering your goals. I wish I had it tuned better so I had some track results to back it up with.

I am running a 700r4 and just went through websites that sell them and copied their build specs. You could probably build it yourself in the $500 range.

 

Thanks for the info! I think I will just build my 700r-4 a bit and be done with it. If I were to get an LS1 power plant I would just buy a 2002 WS6 *drool*. And I'm not worrying about how to tune mine all that much, my father is a magician with a carb so I know it will get tuned to the best of it's abilities.

 

New list:

4 bolt main small block 350 (Gen 1)
GM Performance Vortec Cylinder Heads
GM Performance Vortec Valve Covers
Edelbrock Performer RPM Vortec Intake Manifold
Lunati 00010 Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft (Druation 292/292, Lift .480/.480)
Hedman Long Tube Headers
Barry Grant Road Demon 625 cfm Carburetor
Felpro Gasket Kit
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump (Chevy Replacement)
Mallory Ignition 4307M 3 Port AFPR w/ Gauge

 

i agree. that should be at least 300hp.

 

If you want Vortec heads, it's pretty hard to beat this kit:
http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...ter/sd8060arpm

Barry Grant is going out of business. Up to you whether or not you want to buy something now that won't be supported in the future. Personally, I'd go with a Holley 650 double pumper.

You are going to need more than stock stall to let that engine get up to its powerband. What did you have planned for a torque converter?

Is this an older 2-piece rear main seal block, or newer 1-piece?

 

I'm still doing the research on what torque converter to use, not sure quite yet what brand to go with. And the block is a 1-piece main seal, I am very open to brands and different size in stalls. And I had no clue Barry Grant was going out of business, that makes me sad...

 

Torque converters are one of those things you DON'T want to go cheap on. Expect to pay $375-600 for a lockup converter for your 700R, depending on how much stall is in the converter. A good converter goes a long ways.