Installing Fel Pro Intake gaskets
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 144
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From: Buffalo Mo
Car: 92 T-Top RS Camaro
Engine: 305 .30 over Mild RV Cam
Transmission: Auto 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Installing Fel Pro Intake gaskets
Well my intake gaskets for the front and rear of the block where leaking oil so I went out and bought a new set of gaskets. After reading the directshons on my Fel Pro gasket set I went and installed the gaskets ACCORDING TO THE DIRECTSHONS.... Put CVR on front and rear gaskits (on the block and on top for extra protectshon) and around the water jackets....
Bolted it all back up fired the car off and watched for leaks. After 5 minits i saw no leaks so i was getting ready to leave when the girlfriend asked if it was supposed to smoke that much.. i terned around and it was smokeing black and grey smoke out the LEFT side (true duels) exsost... Ran the car down the road n back and smoke got worse and worse.... watched my oil pressure go from 70 lbs to 40.... by the time i got home (a lil over 2 miles drove, 1 mile down the road, 1 mile back) the car was running 18 lbs of oil pressure at an idel and 28 lbs at 2300 rpm...
so here is my queston.
Fel pro stated where to put CRV.... but the directshons for this step SUCK.. Basicly said "apply CRV moderatly in several places.. (then showed a photo with lines pointing to flat spots on the heads next to bolt holes... no where else)
SO I put CRV around the water jackets, and ends of the block... BUT NOT around the air ports? (dont know what there called) I was told by a friend at a shop that fel pro gaskets only need CRV around the water jackets.. not around the other ports...
Is he wrong? Is oil going into the ports and causeing it to smoke now?
If i did this wrong, how do you correctly install intake gaskets???
Need to know soon as this is my daily driver and i have 3 hrs in the morning to fix the car... thanks all.
Bolted it all back up fired the car off and watched for leaks. After 5 minits i saw no leaks so i was getting ready to leave when the girlfriend asked if it was supposed to smoke that much.. i terned around and it was smokeing black and grey smoke out the LEFT side (true duels) exsost... Ran the car down the road n back and smoke got worse and worse.... watched my oil pressure go from 70 lbs to 40.... by the time i got home (a lil over 2 miles drove, 1 mile down the road, 1 mile back) the car was running 18 lbs of oil pressure at an idel and 28 lbs at 2300 rpm...
so here is my queston.
Fel pro stated where to put CRV.... but the directshons for this step SUCK.. Basicly said "apply CRV moderatly in several places.. (then showed a photo with lines pointing to flat spots on the heads next to bolt holes... no where else)
SO I put CRV around the water jackets, and ends of the block... BUT NOT around the air ports? (dont know what there called) I was told by a friend at a shop that fel pro gaskets only need CRV around the water jackets.. not around the other ports...
Is he wrong? Is oil going into the ports and causeing it to smoke now?
If i did this wrong, how do you correctly install intake gaskets???
Need to know soon as this is my daily driver and i have 3 hrs in the morning to fix the car... thanks all.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Have the heads been shaved? Are they stock heads?
The intake ports don't need any sealant around them. The only reason to dab anything between them is to hold the gasket in place while you set the intake manifold in place.
The intake ports don't need any sealant around them. The only reason to dab anything between them is to hold the gasket in place while you set the intake manifold in place.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Buffalo Mo
Car: 92 T-Top RS Camaro
Engine: 305 .30 over Mild RV Cam
Transmission: Auto 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Installing Fel Pro Intake gaskets
They are fairly stock as far as i know.
I do know that the local machine shop had built the heads before they where installed on the motor by the guy i bought the motor off of. It has 439.4 miles on the rebuild. Motor was freshly built useing all new parts, .30 bore on it, and the heads where fully built includeing porting and polishing.. The intake was installed by my step-brother who forgot to put CRV around the front and rear of the intake thus is why i replaced the gaskets dew to it was leaking oil. (fresh paint shows all)
So im shure they checked to make shure the heads where nice true and flat, as far as being shaved i do not know, but they are "stock" 1990 305 heads, (cars a 92 with a 90 motor in it now)
The motor was never hotter than 220* (i run the stock temp gauge and a aftermarket mechanical equis temp gauge..) factory temp gauge said 220*ish when it was running hot.. and equis gauge (witch was on the water pump but is now on the intake) said 180*. So i know there not warped.
Just cant figure out why it is smokeing black/grey smoke.. If i get a chance i'll get up early and fire the car up and upload a short vid of it smokeing out the left side exsost and show how its smokeing out the right side blow off port on the valve cover (still trying to find the correct plug to plug the hole)
I do know that the local machine shop had built the heads before they where installed on the motor by the guy i bought the motor off of. It has 439.4 miles on the rebuild. Motor was freshly built useing all new parts, .30 bore on it, and the heads where fully built includeing porting and polishing.. The intake was installed by my step-brother who forgot to put CRV around the front and rear of the intake thus is why i replaced the gaskets dew to it was leaking oil. (fresh paint shows all)
So im shure they checked to make shure the heads where nice true and flat, as far as being shaved i do not know, but they are "stock" 1990 305 heads, (cars a 92 with a 90 motor in it now)
The motor was never hotter than 220* (i run the stock temp gauge and a aftermarket mechanical equis temp gauge..) factory temp gauge said 220*ish when it was running hot.. and equis gauge (witch was on the water pump but is now on the intake) said 180*. So i know there not warped.
Just cant figure out why it is smokeing black/grey smoke.. If i get a chance i'll get up early and fire the car up and upload a short vid of it smokeing out the left side exsost and show how its smokeing out the right side blow off port on the valve cover (still trying to find the correct plug to plug the hole)
Joined: Sep 2005
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Installing Fel Pro Intake gaskets
Not sure about CRV? That's a model of car? 
Most common defect with intake gaskets, is screwing up and using the little end seals that come in the kit. Throw those away.
Nest most common defect (sounds like this is what you've got) is assembly failure across the bottom of some of the intake ports. That exposes the crankcase and intake directly to each other. This is bad.
Clean all mating surfaces with lacquer thinner. (CRITICAL!!!!) Use "Right Stuff" gasket sealer, comes in a pressurized can, you just push the button and it lays this beautiful bead down. Smear some of it on the "China wall" of the block. Lay a bead of sealer about ¼" thick on it. Let it sit there for about a half hour to an hour; you want it to start setting up, but not harden completely. Smear a small amount on top of that CAREFULLY so as not to disturb the bead, just add a small amount of fresh on top of it, and smear some on the bottom of the intake where it meets that. Put a fresh dab in each corner where the block, head, & intake come together. Smear some around the water ports, but not around the intake ports. Put a few dabs of sealer on the head surface, but not near any important sealing surfaces; like near the center exh ports. All this is for, is to hold the gasket in place. Set the gaskets on the heads up slightly higher than "perfect" alignment, but make sure the thin strip across the bottom of the ports is securely on the metal there and not hanging out in space somewhere, and make sure they're securely held in place by the sealer. Set the intake on the block, start all the bolts by hand, tighten in a uniform pattern until just barely snug. Wait about 2 hours. Tighten fully, torquing the bolts to about 30 ft-lbs.

Most common defect with intake gaskets, is screwing up and using the little end seals that come in the kit. Throw those away.
Nest most common defect (sounds like this is what you've got) is assembly failure across the bottom of some of the intake ports. That exposes the crankcase and intake directly to each other. This is bad.
Clean all mating surfaces with lacquer thinner. (CRITICAL!!!!) Use "Right Stuff" gasket sealer, comes in a pressurized can, you just push the button and it lays this beautiful bead down. Smear some of it on the "China wall" of the block. Lay a bead of sealer about ¼" thick on it. Let it sit there for about a half hour to an hour; you want it to start setting up, but not harden completely. Smear a small amount on top of that CAREFULLY so as not to disturb the bead, just add a small amount of fresh on top of it, and smear some on the bottom of the intake where it meets that. Put a fresh dab in each corner where the block, head, & intake come together. Smear some around the water ports, but not around the intake ports. Put a few dabs of sealer on the head surface, but not near any important sealing surfaces; like near the center exh ports. All this is for, is to hold the gasket in place. Set the gaskets on the heads up slightly higher than "perfect" alignment, but make sure the thin strip across the bottom of the ports is securely on the metal there and not hanging out in space somewhere, and make sure they're securely held in place by the sealer. Set the intake on the block, start all the bolts by hand, tighten in a uniform pattern until just barely snug. Wait about 2 hours. Tighten fully, torquing the bolts to about 30 ft-lbs.
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