Hey folks,

I was working on the car and decided to yank the fuel tank. Good thing too because the tank was rusting and felt very thin where the rust was. No sense in putting this car back together to have the fuel tank develop holes in it. Anyway, I pulled the pump out to siphon out the gas that was still left in it, considering the rot on the pump lines outside the tank I am going to replace the pump anyway. I'm gonna get a new tank, and before I install it I want to be sure I have the right in tank pump for the car.

I'm putting in a 383 carb stroker, what is my best bet for the in tank fuel pump? Can I get a replacement stock one (mine was originally a carb car) or am I better off going with an aftermarket specialty one? The power goal for the motor is something around 475-500 HP. Also the carb will either be a 650 or 750, no bigger than that.

 

BEFORE, I re-wired my in-tank pump with a new relay, I thought it was broken. I contemplated dropping the tank and installing a standard pick-up and upgrading the pump on the block. There are a lot of options for block mounted pumps both mechanical and electrical.

On the other hand, you could replace your in-tank pump with a factory replacement, upgrade your block pump, and utilize the push/pull method.

Either way, you'll get enough fuel supply for a carbed engine.

You don't need a FI pump to get your 7-9psi. You'll just be adding a pressure regulator (and 3-6 dollar per foot flexible hose) if you go that route.

Just my two cents worth.

 

Alright, so I can get away with a factory replacement L69 in tank fuel pump, and upgrade the one at the block? If thats the case then I'll go that route, as its probably just a bolt in deal. I'm looking at replacing it because of the rot on the hardlines that go to the pump itself.

 

I've been digging around, based on how the car ran before I yanked the motor, and discovered I had two broken teeth on the crank I'd bet my pump works but I'd be stupid to not change it out. My bigger problem however lies with the rotting pump assembly. While I could definitely wire brush and quickly seal the sending unit with the lines and all, is there anywhere I can find the whole assembly new? I'd hate to put it all back together with new parts and have the pump assembly rot out on me.

 

if you use a return-style regulator (which is the only type of regulator you should use with an in-tank type pump), the max pressure in the system will be the outlet pressure, 5-7 psi for a Holley carb. You don't need high pressure/high price hose for that.

There is a lot of confusion about volume vs. pressure with respect to fuel pumps. A pump that will supply a certain volume at a high pressure will supply even more volume at a low pressure - and volume is the issue with increased power, not pressure.

 

What teeth are you talking about?
Yes, you can get a new one. About $195 from O'Reilly. Search on '92 Camaro 350 under the fuel & emissions section.

 

Five7, I'm talking about the timing chain teeth on the crank. Two broke off, and if I was gonna build a motor, I wasn't gonna rebuild an LG4. I was surprised as well.

Will the 92 350 sending unit work with the carb setup? (Obvious question but just making sure that I can use an FI in tank pump with a carb motor)

I found Hawks has them too used but for 50 bucks more it sounds like I'm better off just getting a new one.

 

good to know...

ive scene quite a few people who have converted their fuel injected cars (with the FI in-tank pumps) to carbs. theyve run a pressure regulator to bring the high press down to usable psi for a carb. i havent noticed a return off of those regulators though... is that a no-no (just wondering)

 

Actually, based on your statement, it sounds like I can just run a 92 350 sending unit with a carb pump and upgrade the mechanical one at the block for the stroker motor. I could be wrong.......

 

What I've done, is rewire my intank pump (because the relay went bad, and it ran all the time, draining my battery) and bought a Carter high volume pump for on the block.

So in a nut shell, I used the factory carb pump (in-tank), with an upgraded block pump.

 

Gotcha. Email notice said you said there was a difference in the sending units, I noticed you changed it. Is there or is there not a difference in the sending units? Theres gotta be a reason you can't find one for anything other than the 92 (that I'm aware of). Reason why I'm looking is as I said before, mine will end up needing to be replaced before long, its rotting away.

 

I meant difference in pumps. Not sure about sending units

 

Ok thanks, I'll likely do what you did, just run a factory pump in the tank and a bigger one on the block. I was told I might need to upgrade the one on the block anyway. I'm betting if Five7kid says to run the 92 sending unit, it will likely work anyway.

 

I apologize for reviving this, but I've been digging around on the sending units. Most it seems come with a wiring harness naturally. My problem lies with this. My sending unit which is rotting has a wiring harness code of FEH. I have yet to come across a sending unit with that wiring harness code. There has got to be a reason why these sending units are such a pain to find for carb cars. I am likely going to upgrade the mechanical pump at the block, and retain a stock L69 pump at the sending unit. Should I just cut my harness and splice it into the new sending unit? Or are other harness codes compatible with my harness?