Hey guys. I know there are a lot of VATS related posts and I have read them all. I have a 92 Bird with the 305. Since the day I bought it I have had an intermittent starting issue. Turn the key and nothing. Only lights and dash lights. AS if trying to start in gear type of deal.

The security light would stay on while in the on position. Was able to rig a push button to get it to crank. It will crank and run if I put gas on the carb but will not stay running. I figure it was because the computer was cutting the fuel due to the bad key reading. Replaced the ingition module, cap and rotor. Had the wiring all checked out, seems fine. Its just this damn security trash. The diagnositc computer just says "vehicle anti theft system problem" The car was bought from a storage unit with no keys. The guy i got it from had a locksmith make the key, but it seemd to have a pretty small chip on it and was poor quality. I went to the local chevy dealer to get a key done correctly. I had them do a VIN# check and it came back with NOTHING on the vats code part. We tested the original key and it was key #10. I just had them make me a new 10 key (looks WAY better). I went to try it and still nothing, however the security light has gone away now.

My question is do I need to reset the computer or do a relearn procedure? This is the most annoying issue I have ever had, the car is so awesome but wont start. My next step is to switch out the neutral safety switch. Can someone tell me where that is located? I suspect this because when my partner would shift it all over it was causing it to get sprays of fuel.

Any help at all would be huge, I am at my witts end. I would have just had all 15 keys made but at $65 a pop that wasnt going to work out.

Also I should add. The aftermarket key was keeping the security light lit up but this new key it just goes off after 1-3 seconds. That means it has accepted the key? If its not tripping the vats light would a resistor bypass still be a good plan?

 

If you still suspect VATS, i would go to Radio Shack and buy the 15 resistors you need and try each one till the car turned over. Thats the easiest/cheapest way to rule out VATS.

How did the locksmith know which pellet to use?

 

Thanks for the reply. I have no idea how the locksmith made the key. It used to work fine but gradually got worse to the point of no starting period. The locksmith key is low quality and the resistor is small. The GM new key i got today is the good one and it did make the security light turn off, making me believe its accepting the key now. I just dont know if I need to do something to clear the error code on the old key to make it go or something. Like i said this key is making the security light come off 100% now.

 

Even with the new key, i would try the resistor thing, because that would rule out VATS completely,.......but it sounds like it could be that neutral switch you were talking about.....

 

BTW, VATS module is totally separate from ECM, so it shouldnt need to "relearn" or "reset" anything..

 

I suspect your issue is not the key, or the VATS module itself, but the key cylinder itself. There are very small contacts inside the key cylinder, that are spring loaded, that make contact with the pellet on the key. Since your key worked for awhile, and now does not, I'd say it's the key cylinder.

As mentioned, try the resistor bypass - that way the key cylinder doesn't have to read the key. Or else install a VATS bypass module available from Pianless or on ebay (cheaper on ebay).

The problem is that the VATS sends a pulse wave to the ECM - without that pulse wave, the ECM will not fire the injectors - thus why it starts with a shot of gas, but won't stay running. Fuel pump will prime, injectors have fuel, but they will not fire until the ECM gets that signal from the VATS module. And the VATS won't send the signal until it gets the right resistor value from the key (or a resistor spliced into the wires from the key cylinder.

Good luck!

 

Thank you. I feel like you are dead on, I feel the exact same way. Now the key reader said key #10 at the chevy dealer. My ohm meter puts the old key however at 4100 or a key #11. Its odd it read as a 10. The new key is a 10 and is dead on with my meter. I got 1.5k and 1.2k resistors, can i combine the 2 so i am dead on at 3700? I also got a 3900, but thats just 10 short of the max. Any further instruction on it? I know i have to find the 2 white wires with the orange sleeve over it. Will this be inside the column? Do i cut the 2 wires and bridge them with both resistors?

I suppose if that doesnt do it I can eliminate the key cylinder as the issue correct? I plan on doing this tomorrow and if I can win over this car i will be thrilled, its personal mr vs firebird

 

Just take off the big cover above where the pedals are. Should be under there. No need to go into the column.

 

Sorry for hi-jacking the thread but how do you diagnose if the VATS is bad? What will the car do? After working on my friends car (putting in new E3 plugs) the car wouldn't start after reconnecting the battery... It has power to the ignition switch and the yellow wire has 12.x volts leaving the ignition switch but the starter will not turn... It is the exact same key that was used before the battery was disconnected and never gave a hint of troubles before. It will not even turn the starter over now...

The power is good to the ignition switch and there is 12.x volts leaving the switch in the yellow wire as described above when I turn the key to the start position but there is no power at the Neutral Safety Switch in any circumstance... Key on/Key at Start position/key off etc... There are no blown fuses and I have checked all fusible links that are visible near the battery and they all have 12.x volts past the fusible links... The only thing I can think of is the VATS... also because this is an 89 Camaro with the TBI 305 it says it isn't supposed to have VATS and the Haynes manual shows the yellow wire from the Ignition Switch goes to the Neutral Safety Switch and a purple wire leaves and goes to the Starter... Next reason I believe the car has VATS is because there are 5 or 6 wires at the Neutral Safety Switch and the 2 big ones are Purple (correct...) and the other big one is Green with a White Tracer (not in the Haynes Manual for any year model or engine...)

Please Help...

I have never dealt with a Third Gen... So VATS is new and no one can explain... Some say it disables the starter and others say it disables fuel (injectors or pump???)

Please Help Me!

Thanks,

Stan