Hi,I am the paranoid type,almost everything looks suspisious to me most of the time.I have found my 87 GTA to be 100% original with only 60k miles.
The t/a was smokeing a bit so i decided to man up and tear her down and overhual it.(nothing is more embarassing than to have everyone staring at your bad *** ride then you start it up and poof a quart of oil is burnt).

To make a long story short it needs to be rebuilt completely due to cracked piston skirts and some embedding in the bearings,Also cylinders had some pocketing.I had a local machine shop grind the crankshaft to 010 I think they gave me the wrong crankshaft back.Has a completely different look to it.I marked my old one and the one i recived back didnt have the mark i made.Mine also seemed a bit heavier and was alot more shiney.I assumed it was a better steel.forged steel as apposed to cast.

So the main thing i want to accomplish here is making sure that i have recived ether the exact one back or one that is as good as the one i brought in.
How can one tell by numbers or other markings that the crankshaft is one that comes out of an engine this year and make?I didnt take note of the cast numbers beforehand but the one i recived is 14088528 i cannot find anything on it.

Please help guys i feel raped at the moment.Thanks in advance.

 

There are no distinctive crankshaft markings, all stock cranks are the same.

 

Im not sure exactly what your saying.All stock crankshafts are not the same, some forged some cast.Im assumeing that you mean that for this motor/year/car that they all were the same.Am i right?Thanks again.

 

How did you mark the crank before you gave it to the machine shop? Maybe they just swapped it with a reconditioned one and used yours as a core.

Cast vs. forged.....did you happen to notice the parting line on the crank? A cast crank will have a narrow parting line. A forged crank will have a wide parting line.

 

Would the original crank from that car even be forged?

 

No, cast.

 

Im pretty sure what i gave him was a cast.I recived a cast back but its not the same im assuming he just swapped out for a different crank that was same 010 under.
Whats odd i find is the casting number is 14088528 I cant seem to find anything on this cast#.

I am taking Apeiron's Info to heart as im sure he know what hes saying.Just wasnt sure if he meant that this motor/year they all were the same.Logically i belive thats what he means.

i didnt look real closely at the casting line but im assumeing it was a plain old cast crank.I value your input Apeiron if you find time please correct me

Looking for a decent set of pistons that wont break the bank also would like to run pump gas no more than mid grade.Thinking of going with a set of these

http://www.jegs.com/i/Sealed-Power/8...ductId=1434022

Its not going to really be a race motor but would like some added performance from newer products.
Man i love cracking open a engine block and sniffing the rank smell of those main cap bolts.It reminds me of the days when i didnt have a wife and 4 kids hogging all the time and money.Dont get me wrong they are a gift from heaven but just sayn it takes me back to those racing days.I feel ashamed to even try to post pics of my low budget build because all these iconic builds going on here at thirdgen.I might do the finished product though <3 thanks for all the input and help Thirdgen for life!

Also i wanted to share that auto insurance through haggerdy is a steal if you have a classic car like a gta or even more so of a collector.They insured mine for 8k no deductible full coverage for around 23$ a month.

 

If it was a stock 1 piece RMS crank from a passenger car, it was cast. GM had almost given up on using forged cranks by the 80s, only a handful of HD truck applications had them. Other than that, the different casting numbers are interchangeable.

The only reason I can think of to make sure you got your own crank back would be because it had known balance to reuse with the same reciprocating parts, but you're changing those anyway.