Bellhousing Bolt removal
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 227
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From: King George,VA
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: '69 350 4 Bolt Main .30 Over
Transmission: 700r4/B&M Shift Kit and Flywheel
Axle/Gears: GM 10 Bolt 3.23 Gears
Bellhousing Bolt removal
Is it possible while the trans is still in the car.I have looked it over pretty good,it looks possible but the book says I need to cut holes in the floorboard,WTF!
I'm thinking if I had a long extension and a knuckle I could do it,just haven't tried.Anyone got some advice? I really would rather leave the trans in for the swap.I have a scissor jack under the pan and the TC bolts are already out.
I'm thinking if I had a long extension and a knuckle I could do it,just haven't tried.Anyone got some advice? I really would rather leave the trans in for the swap.I have a scissor jack under the pan and the TC bolts are already out.
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 212
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From: colorado
Car: 86' z28 (died 5/1/11) 76 k10 pickup
Engine: 350
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 open
Re: Bellhousing Bolt removal
take the out the distruibtor out and move the wiring you can get them from the top side with a 9/16 wrench sometimes removing the valve covers helps too thats for the top 4 the bottom 2 a socket and u joint helps
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,962
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From: Moorestown, NJ
Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
Re: Bellhousing Bolt removal
FWIW, its easier to pull them together IMO. Ive always found it to be kind of a pita to line the trans and engine up during the reinstall. It takes a little more time to maneuver the engine/trans together as an assembly, but you can just plop it in once you get it in place. The other issue is properly torquing the BH bolts. With a wrench, you may not get them tight enough. If they back off, you WILL destroy your front pump and torque converter. The best way is to use good grade 8 bolts, and tighten them to spec so the trans stays put.
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From: Pepperell, MA
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: LQ9/L92
Transmission: 4L60E
Re: Bellhousing Bolt removal
you can remove the bolts without having to take the trans and motor out together, but its going to be tight with all the factory wiring there. As already noted, pull the distributor to make life easy, but mark its position (and the rotor's) to make the install one less headache. ratcheting wrenches will make a few of them easier to get at as well. You can also undo the trans mount and jack up the tailshaft housing a little to give you some more room for the top bolts. A swivel joint and some extensions will make the rest easier to get at.
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