you don't have to burn a chip, just contact ed wright. It's cheaper and easier...

 

The engine will run if you hold the throttle open?

Try replacing the coolant temperature sensor that goes to the gauge if they're cheap. Should be in the intake manifold. Could be anything really, though. When they fail the ECM thinks its -200F or something, and dumps TONS of fuel in the car. Is it running really rich when its running?

I just remembered... you've got an aftermarket mystery setup going on there, so your tune is going to be way off. Try playing with the fuel pressure to get it around til you can get a chip set up for it.

 

Got it running perfect, just need a new knock sensor for cold start and a new fuel pump.

 

Sweet. load up some pic will yah? I dont even know what this car or engine looks like.

 

you removed the cold start injector correct? or swapped tpi units?

 

We did neither of those, is it necessary to? The car ran fine during test run. We drove back to time it a little more, shut the car off, started it up and it died a few seconds later. We kept trying to start it but it wouldn't stay on. So we checked fuel pressure. It was at 10psi out of the regular 45psi. Of course I have the crappy AIRTEX fuelpump. So today i'm replacing it with a fuel pump from the dealership.

The only thing thats missing is a new knock sensor for cold start, maybe a new temp sensor just to be on the safe side, and a check valve for vacuum lines to get my A/C to work correctly.

 

Got the new pump in, fuel filter, coolant. Car ran great on the drive home but now it wont start. It will crank and sometimes will stay on for more then 2 seconds. When i disconnect a vacuum line from the manifold it starts but has a rough idle. When i plug the hose back in, the engine shuts off. I still dont have a knock sensor hooked up, could this be the issue? And my A/C still only works out of the 2 top vents (on the dashboard) how do i fix this? My mechanic says i just need a new check valve.

 

AC vents run off vacuum. The selector directs engine vacuum to the box with all the flaps and whatnots in it. You just dont have the vacuum line hooked up to the A/C most likely unless you damaged it during the swap.

What vacuum line are you disconnecting that makes the car start, albeit roughly?

 

It's not the knock sensor, it ran good before, right?? It's been a couple years since I've seen a TPI hooked up, so a little more description would be nice, although there are others that are a little more up to date on them and can provide some insight on the subject. Quit being so vague with your descriptions, typing some more details will help us help you and speed the process along. Not trying to insult your intelligence or anything, but is it the manifold or the plenumn, drivers side or passenger side? Where does the other end of the vacuum line go?

 

I believe the vacuum line goes to this: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...1t:429,r:7,s:0

There is a vacuum port on the TPI that it connects to, passenger side,. With the port unplugged it runs and sucks air. When i block it off or plug the vacuum port that runs to the fuel pressure regulator (i think), it dies instantly. I'm still trying to find more information on my new engine.

 

The TPI is made of different parts, the part you are talking about is the plenumn, not a manifold or the TPI, the tubie thingies are runners and at the other end of those is the base. You have to know what you're working on before you can ask for help, just make thing easier. Read your manual, it will help identify what you're looking at. I'll give you credit, you did figure out what the line went to, so good job in putting in the effort, it's appreciated. Now hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see what the pressure is when the vac line is on/ off, should be above 40psi. You can rent one from a parts house or save yourself some gas money + time and just buy one for $30, IIRC. Is there a gas/ vac leak around the regulator or does fuel come out of the vac line? Pull the codes for the hell of it and see what comes up.

 

We got the vacuum line worked out. The MAP sensor is making the engine run crappy however. Not sure if it's the connector but it's not throwing any codes. It runs great, starts right up (when it's cold), acceleration is bad because of the MAP sensor though. It threw engine code 43, ECM. Now for that code it's either a loose TPS or a knock sensor failure. The TPS has been calibrated and re-calibrated several times. The Temperature sensor for the knock sensor does not work so that might be the code 43. I can't seem to find this part anywhere. Even the dealership has no idea what it is. All i know is it's the temperature sensor for the knock sensor, something like that. It helps turn the fans on I believe. But my fans might be hot wired, when the key is in the on position, one fan is going, when the car is turned on both fans are on right away.

I'm basically working out the electrical bugs my old engine had because I kept the 91' wiring. Other than that it runs great!

 

CODE 43

 

So it could be the Knock/Fan Temp. Sensor that i'm looking for? The car runs fine, a little hesitant because it's missing a sensor, but other then that it runs great. Only when I accelerate the car runs a little weird. Acceleration is terrible! Unbelievably bad! Even when I floor it it doesn't go anywhere to quickly. I think the timing is being thrown off because I don't have this sensor, or it's the MAP sensor.

Also, I've been looking for weeks for a 1991/1988 Chevy 305 cold air intake system. I'm not really sure where else to look.

 

you dont really need a cold air intake, priorities first id say, and why 91-88 thats going back in time plus theres other years included

 

I need the cold air intake for better gas mileage. I have to drive up to college 20 miles a day for a few years. And I looked for a 91 and 88 cause I have an 88 engine with a 91 throttle body.

 

the only difference in the throttle bodies are the linkage, otherwise they are the same. And don't expect a cold air intake to give you any horsepower or fuel mileage increase. I put on on my formula because it looked cleaner, car drives exactly the same.

How come your driving around without a knock sensor? It does a lot more for the car then controlling the cold start...

 

My mechanic said it's not the knock sensor. It's the Temperature sensor for the knock sensor. He says it tells the fans to turn on or something like that.

And what else can I do to get better gas mileage?

 

the engine itself doesnt matter, or the the year of the throttle body, fo from like 86-92 i think thats the years of the tpi. make your own even its really easy and youll save money which can go to gas money

 

Make my own intake? How would I go about doing that? I wouldn't even know where to start. I saw things on ebay that create better "airflow" from the time the air passes the filter to where it reaches the throttle body. Not sure if it's legit. I have yet to tune my car with the Ostrich 2.0 program so when I get the sensor and get it timed correctly i'll tweak the performance.

 

if you want better performance you can do more to your tpi runner and stuff to help increase that, the runners only have so much airflow. do a search on here theres a ton of people who have made thier own cold air kits with no more than the cone filter so tubing and cuplers

 

there is no temp sensor for the knock sensor...

there is a temp sensor for the second fan that goes on the passenger side of the block, but it has nothing to do with the knock sensor, and only controls that fan.

for better gas mileage a MSD ignition box would be a good start

 

I'm reading into AS&M TPI runners and intake plenum but I can't find out where to buy them. But I'm going to get a 1991 engine intake plenum so I have the vacuum ports I need.

EDIT: Scratch that! Found where to get them. And damn are they expensive! Thats something i'll have to do further down the road.

 

So then what could my issue be? Could it be that without that sensor it won't run well? I'm thinking I should just replace the knock sensor because it threw a code 43. I have a week to figure this crap out before school starts.

Also, what MSD ignition box would you recommend? Not entirely sure what i'm looking for. Is this any good? http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/msdignitionbox6a.aspx

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-6201/

That is the new one, the one on hawks is the old style. Without a knock sensor the car will not run well at all. Also with a non stock cam in the motor and running speed density the car will have no idea on how to control it. That cam you posted is far from the stock peanut cam these cars came with. I'd suggest email ed wright and getting a chip burnt after you clear up your problem with the codes. You can ohm your knock sensor to see if its in spec, or just replace it. Before you replace the sensor follow the wire as best as you can and make sure its ok. They clips have a tendancy to become brittle break due to age/being heat cycled.

-Jim

 

If you have a big cam your tune will be off. This is going to be most obvious at wide open throttle.

There's a possibility you're running lean, the timing is too far advanced, it's detonating, and you're about to blow a hole in your piston without the knock sensor installed to retard timing. Or maybe it's not, but the point is that neither your or us know. Driving it at wide open throttle is exactly what you want to avoid until you get the tune dialed in. Also, getting it properly tuned is going to go a LOT farther towards gas mileage than some shiny piping from the air filter to the throttle body.

Forget upgrading the TPI system - you may as well fill a bucket up with money and set it on fire. Just get it running okay and leave it alone. When you're knowledgable enough to figure out what you want out of the car and how much it costs to get what you want out of it, and different methods of doing that, you can make a better decision about whether or not you want to stay with the TPI.

 

Now i'm a little concerned. School starts in 3 days, my mechanic shop is closed on weekends, and I don't want to mess up my engine because of a stupid sensor.

I'm just gonna buy a new knock sensor and replace the connector at the end as well. I'm almost positive the timing is too far advanced because acceleration is terrible. How would I know if it's detonating?

So I can't use the cam shaft thats in there now with speed density? The guy did give me the original but I'd rather not use it to be honest.

 

My mechanic just looked at it. The knock sensor is installed and working. My car needs a temperature sending unit. He intentionally did not tune the timing correctly so it's not so much stress on the engine while i'm breaking it in

 

if you dont time it correctly it will hurt the engine more than help it depending on how off it is

 

ecm tells the fan when to turn on. CTS(coolant temp sensor) tells the ecm the temp of the coolant . It's under the throttle body on the front of your engine.No such thing as a temperature sensor for the knock sensor. There is a fan switch beside the knock sensor, which turns on the passenger side fan( your other radiator fan). Symptoms u are describing sound like a bad or disconnected knock sensor. Set the timing to 6*BTDC like it should be and eliminate your timing from being wrong.

 

You can acheive maximum mileage by doing a full tune up. Change fuel filter, run inj. cleaner, change plugs,wires,dist. cap and rotor and set your timing where it is supposed to be.

 

Why don't u ask your mechanic to ohm your injectors too.

 

Got the part installed, no issues. Advanced the timing. Got A/C working, it actually works better then ever.

 

what part? CTS?

 

Hay man, you got pics yet?

 

Yes, the coolant temp sensor.

And Skelitor i've been taking pictures through the entire engine installation. I'm just waiting to get my camera back from my mechanic haha.

Also, i've been looking for a 'smoke' kit for my car. Not the head lights, but all the turn signals lights i'd like to be 'smoked'. I think it would look cool on a red camaro. I found the front turn signals and side signals but the rear turn signal cluster I might have to figure something out on my own. Any ideas?

I've also been looking for an LED MPH gauge. Just a single guage that can be installed on the dashboard or something, a simple number for MPH, one that lights up Red.

 

nightshades is usuable but hard to work with. theres another product that i cant remember the name but works with less hassle also
and for your guage look on glowshift.com

 

Glowshift.com is awesome lol!

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/elite...ter-gauge.aspx

This would look cool. I plan on installing it right under the dashboard, above my head unit. My only concern is if the mounting can be turned upside down.

I have an old rear right turn signal light cluster that I can test on with the shading

 

agreed. and HOW ARE INJECTORS 600 BUCKS??! i bought eight 24lb Accels for about $250. and it aint $700 to install injectors. probably about another $250.

one thing i would like to add is that i can GUARAN-DAMN-TEE that the dude will be sorry if he buys this motor. aside from the fact that a project such as this always has unforseen costs that are sometimes equal to the forseen costs, i would bet money that he is ALMOST CERTAINLY buying someone elses problem.

what are the symptoms exhibited by the car in question?

 

well, upon further review...um was i right or wrong? is this thing up and running now? he's ready for....a glowing tachometer now?

 

I picked up a set of used Ford 24lbers about 2 years ago and they are still going strong. Had to get the chip re-burned tho. You can find a set for like fifty bucks.

 

Car runs great Linson. No issues. Next on my list are brakes, probably getting a quote tomorrow. If my rotors are still good (not sure but i think they're factory), i
ll just buy pads. If they're no good, i'll upgrade to slotted disk-brakes. Only in the front of course. A drum to disk brake kit is VERY expensive. I don't see why though, can't i just pop the drum off and stick a pair of disks on there?

I was just lookin' at new tach's because i'm a little tired of looking at the same thing everytime I drive, and because I was bored.

 

in theory it would seem like so, but when you research the closest thing you can swap onto there are discs from ls camaros i believe, but youd have to look into that because im not remembering if the prop valve or anything needs to be changed

 

I was at advance today just looking around, and I saw a filter for the valve cover. Whats the purpose of that? Not really sure what it would do. The guy I asked wasn't sure. It was only 8 bucks. If it makes a difference in something then hell i'll get one.

 

1. looking over this thread, it seems like you did have plenty of issues, and that the unforseen costs and hassles have been equal to or greater than those that would have been apparent.

2. with all the things that you want to do, it would have been far more cost effective (and still will be now) to just sell the RS or whatever that youre driving now, and buy a different car - either an F-body that came factory equiped with 4-wheel disc brakes and posi, ect., like an IROC-Z, Trans Am or Formula, or a different car all together. btw, if you have drum brakes in the back, then you dont even have posi - meaning you have a one-legger rear end, and most likely 2:73-ish rear gears. as i said, even now, you'd be better starting with higher trim level car.

also, i thought that the TPI cars cam with 4-wheel disc brakes and posi and that the TBI cars came with drums and open dif. can someone correct me if i'm wrong. if i'm correct, then this thread makes even less sense.

3. i'm not entirely convinced that this isnt a troll/joke thread. first, you're looking for the cheapest way possible to get your car into working order. then, youre looking to spend money on big power upgrades like camshafts, and whatnot, not to mention wanting to purchase frivolous things like aftermarket glowing guages - which is rice, btw, and would tend to annoy most people on this board.

if this isnt a joke, then in all seriousness, again, my advise to you is to STOP IMMEDIATELY putting money into the car that you have, and get something reliable to get you around. if/when you need an 80's vintage performance car, look to buy one that says IROC-Z, GTA, FORMULA something or other, 5.0, or Corvette the fender. 87 and newer would be best.

other than that, i'm selling my full bolt on fourth gen that makes 300 horsepower at the wheels and has barely 70K on the odometer. it's good to go.

 

The engine I bought fixed all the issues I had. No misfire, no leaks, no major vibration, etc. It also came with the diggest cam shaft these engine can take, roller rockers, hydrolic lifters, new water pump.

Theres really not much more I want to do to the engine since it was completely rebuilt with new parts, mostly upgrades to get more gas mileage.

And I do bash on ricers most of the time, but my RPM gauge is busted so instead of buying a whole new cluster, I can just buy a little RPM gauge off to the side.

My car is reliable, since the new engine was put in. A month ago I couldn't make it to school and back. Now I can make it from Sarasota to Tampa with no issues. It's a bumpy ride but shocks are further down the list.

This car has a load of sentimental value to me. My dad drove it for 13 years and I still remember as a kid going to every Devil Rays baseball game in Tampa and every day driving me to school. I don't want to get it factory perfect, but to the way that I remember it when my dad first got it. Maybe even more.

 

Sweet.

 

he still makes a great point though, and i dont think youll be doing the brake swap youll get someone to do it and youll end up paying big bucks. also the bigger camshaft isnt goin to be good for streetability but whatever im not paying for gas

 

It's probably your pcv valve

 

It looked a lot like this,

http://musclemotors.com/valve-cover-...01-p-1274.html