Installed new heads and reassembled everything as when I removed it. Put HEI back as marked and brought #1 to top to insure rotor was pointing at it. At every crank all I get is a backfire through the carb. I am fairly sure of wiring as long as the Tach/tab on HEI unit points directly out to drivers side fender of engine....? I did install the proper plugs for new Al. heads and gapped them properly. I tried adjusting dist. several times, with same results. Anything helpful to try, would be appreciated. Tryed to remember ...right /retard...left /advance?

 

It's not hard to have the timing "in the ballpark", yet still advanced enough to backfire through the carb. I've done it right more than once, had #1 at TDC and threw the carb on and put it "in the ballpark" of the range I expected it to at least fire up, and managed to backfire through the carb. Just play with it until you get it right. It's probably too advanced. So retard it a little. Counterclockwise. Then reset the timing with a light once you get it running.

Other possibility is that you're at #6 TDC and #1 is on the exhaust stroke.

 

I did watch the Youtube video that sounded just like me from January and did exactly as the guy said with the timing mark set as #1 was at TDC and rotor at #1 position. Think I need to recharge battery from cranking so much. I will try your suggestion.Thanks.

 

Putting the timing mark at 0 with #1 @ TDC is not enough to guarantee that the engine is lined up properly.

There are 2 instances of #1 TDC during one engine cycyle; the one that's firing, and the one that's at the end of the exh stroke and the beginning of the int stroke. Needless to say if the spark occurs while the int valve is open, it's going to light off the whole contents of the intake manifold, and spit back through the carb.

Since there are 2 complete revolutions of the crank during one engine cycle, that means that 4 cyls fire during each crank rev.

You have 3 choices: set the engine to where the timing marks are lined up and the rotor is pointed to the #1 plug wire, remove the dist, and then either rotate the engine to the compression instance of TDC, and drop the dist back in, or rotate the dist shaft exactly 180° from wherever it is when you pull it out, and drop it back in; or, move the plug wires around the cap 4 positions (kind of a hack-ish thing to do since it will turn the plug wires into a bird's nest but will at least run regardless).

 

Just to see if that is the problem,if I rotate all the wires 4 positions and it runs,can I then do one of the other options to make it right?

 

That is awesome(sorry.. too old to use that expression) it started and idled by swapping wires....but... the timing light is erratic,like a cylinder isn't firing or something because it is not a steady pulse. Thoughts?.

 

Now that you know that it was 180 out start by pulling the distributor and rotating it 180 and reinstall, put all of your wires where they should be. See how it is running and then if it's still running like it has a miss find out where and why. Also are you setting the timing with the vac advance or wire disconnected?

 

Will do...tomorrow...here it is beer-thirty and I am done for the day. I have 2 weeks until school starts and I get to "enlighten these young minds" lol...so thanks for the input(greatly appreciated from all) and I will post how this works out tomorrow.

 

Also let us have a little more info as to what you are working on, I'm assuming by you info that it is most likely a carbed 350 with a vaccum advance dist with no computer controlled components? What carb, heads, intake, cam, etc are you running? (assuming heads are aftermarket by your first post, assuming not much is origional to the vehicle if it is the 82 'maro with a 350 in your info, the more info u provide makes it easier to diagnose without actually being there)

 

360 4 bolt main c.i. 750 holley dual line with a Weiand square bore al. intake,KMJ Al 190cc 2.02x1.60 heads. XE 268 flat Comp. cam. with roller tip rockers. 2.7K stall conv. on a turbo 350 trans. 4:10 (hate myself ) non posi. Hurst ratchet shift and stripped interior(poly seats) including no windows,T-tops or non essential parts.I think that is about it.

 

That should be a fun engine.

 

Sorry,didn't see last part.I set timing with vacuum advance hose off.

 

your 180 out,put the wires where they belong,pull the cap,note rotor position,rotate it exactly 1980 degrees and slide it back in,have friend try to start car wile you move dist around a little untill the car will start,when started keep turning dist,youll be able to telll when the motor stops stumbling and runns better,plug vac advance in and wot test run,if you heare pinging(sounds alot like valve chatter)retard the timing 1-2 degrees at a time until its gone

 

Ha absolutely wicked typo!

 

Well it would actually work... 1980° = 11 x 180° = 5½ full turns

 

wooohoo still right

 

Any luck?

 

All is well here! Runs very well...only glitch is I have a crack in the #8 header pipe. I will get a new set of headers and will have more than I anticipated. It is soooooo neat to have this power(not sure how I would handle cars with REAL H.P.) At this point in life, outside of pulling a wheelie....pretty cool! Thanks for asking...great website with knowledgable people.

 

Always good to hear when things work out, have fun with 'er sounds like a fun combo!

 

did you spin dist 1980 degrees