heres what I have and have done so far 1973 400 SBC, bored 30 over, steel splayed 4 bolt mains installed with ARP main studs, all machine work is done execpt might have the coolant passages pluged and drilled then the block decked and cam bearings still need to be installed. I have speedpro forged flat tops for it set up for 5.7 rods compression as it sits would be close to 11.2-1 before decking the block (if my math is correct),thats about it need crank and rods yet, havent decided on which brand and style im going to buy yet. I have a set of canfield 200cc alum. heads with 2.05/1.60 valves and 64cc chambers and a vic jr to go on top.
would switching out the pistions to a dish and running twin turbos be worth the money? I would also like to run a solid roller cam on this motor and possibley EFI after breakin anyone had any luck with a setup like this any thoughts? just too many ideas running aroung in my head trying to set up a plan to get this donethe motor has been sitting for the last 10 years waiting for me to finish it lol.

 

I wouldn't do a power adder to a factory 400 block. Aftermarket 4.125" bore blocks take care of the problems GM built in.

I would have done a street fill of Hard Blok. Not sure you'd want to do that if the cylinders have already been honed.

Howards makes some good cranks & rods. You might want to check into them.

 

yeah back when I had this block first done the aftermarket blocks were way out of the price range, IIRC i looked at a dart block and it was about 2200-2600 all in all with all the machine work and parts im in to it for 1800 so far most of that was machine work.
seen the howards 4340 cranks on competion products for sale just under 600, few months ago they had the cola cranks in clearence for 500 still kicking myself for not getting one.
the cylinders have been honed so hard blok is out till the next rebuild
do you think that pulging the coolant passages will help keep the deck from cracking or should I not even bother at this point?

 

You can get a dart SHP block for 1800 fully machined ready to assemble these days. best bang for the buck when doing a 400 build. Accepts all the factory OEM roller cam stuff just like an L98, but its a 2pc rear main seal setup.

A good turbo setup on a 400 will make more than enough power to crack a stock block so i'd be vary careful with that. Some guys get them to live so it could be possible, especially if you keep power around 500whp which is an easy number to hit on a turbo 400 setup. My mild motor with similar heads and intake to you made 640whp on a mustang dyno thru a huge stall Th400 tranny and ran 9.8's at 141 mph. Just 12 psi on the dyno, 14psi at the track. Even 8-10 psi is a mid high 10 second car. So its risky to do a turbo setup on stock block.